Deli sandwiches with an East Coast bias

Nothing is wrong with the designer portobello or Dungeness crab-cake sandwiches we like to eat around here. But every once in a while you need a sandwich "dat you'ze gonna boip up" for the next two days.

If the lunch-hour line that stretches outside the door of Tat's Delicatessen is a hint, the workers of Pioneer Square have developed just that kind of East Coast bias.

Brian Tatman and Jason Simodejka, a couple of transplants from the East Coast, opened the joint about two years ago, a half-block from Occidental Square Park. And no, there's no truth to the rumor that the burps originating from Tat's is what knocked over 17 trees in that park earlier this month.

Tat's offers a variety of egg sandwiches for early risers, but about 95 percent of its business is lunch. The menu lists 25 different sandwiches, most served either on an 8- or 12-inch fresh Italian roll. A lot of customers order the CheeseSteak, cold Tat's Italian sub or hot Tat'strami sandwich.

CheeseSteak add-ons include grilled onions, mushrooms, bacon and sweet, hot or fried peppers — not to mention seven different choices of cheese.

The deli has six two-top tables and a short counter, so unless you arrive early (before 11:30 a.m.) or late (after 1 p.m.), expect a wait or prepare to take out. You can always call in your order ahead of time. When it isn't slammed during the lunch rush, Tat's also will deliver orders of five sandwiches or more to the downtown area.

The color scheme is black and white. The walls are decorated with banners for the Philadelphia Eagles and Penn State University, as well as photographs of Philadelphia.

Oh, and here's a scoop: Tat's is scouting South Lake Union for a second location.

During baseball season, Tat's will be open until first pitch on weeknights and two hours before game time on weekends (on off-game weekends, it is closed). So here's your chance to root, root, root for the home team.

In other words: Go Phillies!

Check please:

CheeseSteak: I ordered mine the traditional Philly way — "wit" onions, sweet peppers and, yup, Cheez Whiz. Fresh top round is sliced, chopped and grilled with the extras, topped with melted cheese (provolone and white American also are popular) inside a soft, chewy Italian roll. Not as messy as you might think, it's perfect to bring to Safeco Field for a first-pitch feast.

Cajun turkey sub: A spicy combination of thick-sliced white meat (roasted in house and sprinkled with hot, Hot, HOT spices), pepper Jack cheese, roasted sweets and a hot-pepper spread imported from the East Coast. This is one sweat-inducing sandwich.

Potato salad and coleslaw: They're made from scratch with a base of sour cream, buttermilk, celery seed and mustard. Is it summer yet? Let's have a picnic.

Itemized bill, meal for two

8-inch CheeseSteak $6.75

8-inch Cajun turkey sub $7.50

Small potato salad $1.00

Small coleslaw $1.00

Tax $1.51

Total $17.76

Stuart Eskenazi: 206-464-2293 or seskenazi@seattletimes.com