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Palisade Sweet Potato Fries

Makes 4 servings

Kraig Hansen, the chef at Seattle's Palisade restaurant, makes these delectable sweet potato fries with the dark orange variety of sweet potato that some people call yams. With a "crisp exterior and a soft interior," he notes, "they should be not soggy but not crunchy; slightly golden brown, not burnt." Serve the fries hot with Coconut Jerk Mayonnaise.

For the Coconut Jerk Mayonnaise

1 cup homemade or quality store-bought mayonnaise

2 tablespoons coconut milk

2 tablespoons Thai Sweet Chili Sauce

1 ½ teaspoons Jamaican Jerk Seasoning

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves

For the Sweet Potato Fries

1 ¼ pounds sweet potatoes (about 2 medium)

Canola oil for frying

Kosher salt and pepper, to taste

1. Whisk together the ingredients mayonnaise, coconut milk, chili sauce, jerk seasoning and cilantro, and keep refrigerated until serving time.

2. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into julienne matchsticks, about 4 inches long and ¾ inch thick.

3. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Line a baking sheet with a brown paper bag and put it in the oven.

4. Heat a 4-inch layer of oil (about 4 cups) in a deep, heavy stockpot over medium-high heat until a candy thermometer registers 375 degrees or until a cube of bread dropped into the oil rises immediately to the surface and becomes golden brown in 1 minute.

5. Fry the sweet potato sticks, a handful at a time, until they are light golden brown and slightly crisp, about 3 to 4 minutes per batch. Lift the fries from the oil with a slotted spoon and scatter them over the paper-lined baking sheet. Hold each batch on the pan in the warm oven while subsequent batches are fried.