Keeping Cool And Collected

In wine-storage units, size isn't the only thing that matters

MY FIRST wine-storage unit was a cardboard box stuffed into a basement closet. It stayed cool, adequately displayed the wines, and offered (relatively) convenient access. It cost me nothing and did the job. Of course, there wasn't a bottle in there worth more than $8.

These days it's more complicated. Wine collections are more extensive and more expensive. They need protection — from heat, from cold, from nosy guests. Kitchens are now entertainment centers, and wine is more likely to be a regular part of everyday meals. Even if you have a dedicated wine cellar, short-term wine storage close to the dining room is welcome.

Wine units come in every imaginable size and configuration, from a six-bottle countertop model all the way to massive pieces of elaborate furniture. You can buy them everywhere from Home Depot and Costco to appliance specialists such as Albert Lee, as well as online through purveyors such as Vintage Cellars, which claims to beat all other delivered prices (www.vintagecellars.com), and American Wine Essentials (www.winecabinets.com).

But by far the largest seller of temperature-controlled, home-storage wine cabinets in the country is the Wine Enthusiast. A brief stroll through the company's Web site (www.wineenthusiast.com) can leave you reeling with information. So I recently sat down with CEO Adam Strum, product specialist Josh Farrell and director of merchandising Gary Sullivan, and asked them to help me cut through the confusion.

"We usually begin by asking how many bottles you need to store," advised Farrell. "The most common answer is 50 or 60, which means the unit will be the same size as a dishwasher."

Size is one defining parameter, and a good start. But there are optional features galore, and many choices have as much to do with lifestyle as with function. How will it be used?

These are not just small refrigerators. Their temperature controls are more precise, and higher humidity levels are maintained. Many come with locks and some with alarms.

We decided to approach the subject room-by-room, which is how most of us design our homes.

The kitchen is an obvious choice. Here is where meals are planned and assembled, pre-functions are centered, and where wines not destined for long-term cellaring are most conveniently stored.

The smaller kitchen units fit on countertops (they look like microwaves) or can be built in under counters. One of the most popular is the 32-bottle Avanti "Slimline" ( $449), which tucks neatly into the space formerly occupied by your broken/never-used trash compactor. Built-ins are self-contained and need no plumbing, but they must be front-vented. Back-vented units should never be installed in a kitchen; they will quickly burn out.

Many kitchen-appliance specialists, such as Viking, Jenn-Air and Sub-Zero, now offer wine-storage units designed to complement their cooktops, dishwashers and refrigerators.

Specialist brands include Danby, Haier, Avanti and the La Moda line from Italy. They may have an edge when it comes to knowing exactly what functionality and engineering is most important for wine safety.

EuroCave is the Rolls Royce of wine-storage units. This month the Wine Enthusiast is introducing EuroCave's new "Performance" unit, with adjustable humidity controls, a "no-heat" LED light, shelves that roll out on casters, and built-in alarms that alert you if the temperature exceeds the programmed settings.

If your budget runs more to the low end, go for the smaller, less expensive units at the big boxes and other major retailers. Ask about reliability, safety features, warranties and expected lifespan before you buy. And don't put expensive wines in cheap units.

Most kitchen units come in stainless or black finishes, with or without glass doors. If you want glass doors, be certain that they are well-insulated and offer protection from ultraviolet rays. You will also want dual temperature controls, so white wines can be chilled to 45 degrees and reds kept at 60 to 65 degrees, perfect serving temperatures.

Noise can be an issue, as the front-vented units have fans. In general, the more expensive units are also quieter.

The family room, media room or den is another popular location. Here you definitely want a quiet unit, so the best choices are stand-alone models. "You're watching TV or playing pool or entertaining friends," notes Strum, "and it's a place where you have a lot of food snacks rather than full meals." It's nice to be able to grab a bottle of snack-friendly wine right on the spot.

Living-room storage units are a good choice when you have no room for a dedicated wine cellar. They resemble credenzas or armoires and can hold 1,000 bottles or more. Amenities such as a cigar humidor, a display bar and even a gourmet food pantry are available, and prices can easily reach many thousands of dollars.

Weight is a concern with these larger models, especially in an apartment or condo. In addition to the unit itself, you need to calculate the weight of the wine. Figure three pounds per standard (750 ml) bottle — which means that a full thousand-bottle unit will weigh as much as a small car.

Wine-storage units designed for outdoor use must be weather-proof. If your unit is going into an unheated garage, you might require a model that heats as well as chills, so it can cycle your wines comfortably through all seasons.

The newest wrinkles in outdoor wine-storage units are those designed to work with grills, spas and pools. These are UL-rated, waterproof and portable. Compact and flexible, they are designed to accommodate wine, water and beer bottles. Just like my cardboard box, only waterproof!

Paul Gregutt writes the Wednesday wine column for The Seattle Times and teaches wine-tasting seminars. He can be reached at tastesmart@aol.com.