Peace reigns at the Palais-Royal

If the Mona Lisa-seeking crowds at the Louvre Museum are overwhelming, escape across the street to the Palais-Royal.

This tranquil complex in the heart of Paris weaves together ornate palaces and quiet courtyards, colonnaded walkways and a formal garden.

Once the 17th-century home to political leader Cardinal Richelieu and assorted French royalty, Palais-Royal now is a haven for Parisians and visitors in-the-know. Small antique shops, art galleries and cutting-edge designer boutiques, from Stella McCartney to Marc Jacobs, are tucked into its tall-arched arcades. A fountain burbles in the enclosed garden amid manicured lawns and rows of elegantly pruned trees.

The only discordant note at Palais-Royal is a modern art installation, a cluster of 260 black-and-white-striped short columns that dot a classic courtyard. Called "Colonnes de Buren" after its designer, French artist Daniel Buren, the outdoor sculpture has been controversial since its 1980s installation. Some shun it; others enjoy strolling among the low columns, recently reopened after more than a year of renovations to restore lighting and a fountain to the artwork.

The Palais-Royal wasn't always peaceful. Parisians flocked here in the 1700s, promenading and trading gossip, gambling and drinking at Palais-Royal cafes, and attending its lively theaters. In the 1800s, revolutionaries trashed and looted Palais-Royal during decades of political upheaval.

These days the meticulously maintained buildings are mostly home to French government offices and closed to the public. But everyone can wander outdoors at Palais-Royal, among its historic arcades and modern columns.

Kristin R. Jackson is a Seattle Times travel editor and writer. Contact her at kjackson@seattletimes.com.