Chile and Argentina offer good value for fresh, food-friendly wines

THE WINDS OF change blowing across the wine industry are not all bad. Consumers are seeing rare wines on sale at even rarer low prices; big companies are scrambling to offer ever-more-affordable value brands; and small wineries are cleaning house to make way for the new releases — good news for wine scavengers.

The wines of Argentina and Chile have exploded in popularity, and for good reason. Between them, the two countries cover all the most important varietal bases; in addition, they offer such regional specialties as torrontés, carmenère and malbec. You can find these wines readily available from big companies such as Chile's Cono Sur, imported by Vineyard Brands.

Founded in 1993, Cono Sur makes no apologies for being big and corporate — their motto reads "No family trees, no dusty bottles, just quality wine." They have embraced sustainable and (to some degree) organic farming practices, and pioneered the cultivation of viognier and pinot noir in Chile.

Cono Sur makes a lot of wine; their Web site lists a production capacity of 12 million litres (roughly 16 million bottles) annually. There is something for everyone: sparkling wines, white wines, red wines and rosés, offered at several price points.

The basic Cono Sur wines, bearing the bicycle label, sell for $8 to $10. Attractively packaged and sealed with screwcaps, they include five whites, five reds and a rosé. The white wines are especially good, very fresh, with high acids and pleasing minerality. These are stainless-steel fermented, moderate in alcohol and flexibly food-friendly. Don't look for lushness or tropical fruits, nor should you expect any hints of oak. Rather, these are built on flavors of green berries, citrus fruits and stone.

I especially like the slightly spritzy riesling, the racy viognier and the lightly grassy sauvignon blanc. The current vintage is 2008, and it's a good idea to drink these wines as young as possible.

Similar varietal lineups, made with more select fruit and selling for higher prices, are offered under the reserva and Visión lines, along with limited-edition wines labeled 20 Barrels and an ultra-premium pinot noir called Ocio.

Pinot noir is something of an obsession for Cono Sur, and they do a nice job with it. The regular bottling is extremely popular in the UK, and deservedly so. Silky and bright with red fruits and a sweet cherry core, it's just as good, if not a bit better, than the pricier Visión old-vine version.

Small-production wines from Argentina are as common as spring mushrooms, and this past March, a new importer debuted in Seattle determined to bring in a few more. Elemental Importers (www.elementalimporters.com)is the project of Ashley and Ryan Sytsma. The newly minted entrepreneurs intend to focus their business on younger wine consumers.

"The current wine culture," says Ashley, "is intimidating and out of reach for many people in their 20s and 30s. We want people to know that wine does not need to be highbrow and snobby. We are importing great wine that is affordable on their salary."

Elemental's modest portfolio of Argentine wineries includes just three producers at the moment, all with wines priced around $10 or $11. My favorites are the Domados 2008 Torrontés, loaded with scents of blossom and flavors of citrus, and the Gozzo 2007 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon, a fine bottle with soft, plummy fruit and streaks of coffee and dark chocolate. American Northwest distributes these wines.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines & Wineries — the Essential Guide." Contact him at paulgwine@me.com.