Snow days at Suncadia

CLE ELUM — The barks echoed throughout the Ponderosa pine valley. These race dogs could barely contain themselves, their harnesses yanked down by a handler to keep them from taking off.

"You ready," the musher uttered, more a warning than a question.

The handler released the harnesses. My head jerked back.

Six race dogs, their paws moving in sync.

The lap around a track was supposed to take five minutes. This dash took two. These amped-up Siberian huskies eventually settled down to a slower pace on the next lap.

Don't mistake that for fatigue, said musher Tom Porter, with a devilish grin, because "if they see another racer, they would be like two guys in their Mustangs."

You can catch Porter and his race dogs at Suncadia Resort near Cle Elum on coming weekends, even get a free dogsled ride. It's the latest winter attraction this resort offers, along with cross-country skiing; snowshoeing; ice skating; and "Snolf," an outdoor version of miniature golf played in packed snow with an oversize ball. Coming soon: A tubing center with rope tow.

Kids can even bring their own sleds to take on as many hills as their lungs can stand.

Gradually, Suncadia, a 4-year-old mixed-use resort known for its three championship golf courses, has added several affordable winter attractions. It makes for a decent day trip with the kids, and only a 90-minute drive from Seattle.

Well-stocked and undernoticed

As a family recreation area, Suncadia so far has been largely overlooked, partly because of nearby popular attractions such as Snoqualmie Pass and partly because many don't know Suncadia's winter sports venues are open to the public, not just to resort guests and homeowners. And access to trails and use of some facilities are free.

While construction on this giant resort — with condominiums, sports center and retail shops — won't be finished until 2013, its winter recreation infrastructure is mostly in place. And this winter has brought abundant snowfall to Suncadia, which, at 2,250-feet elevation, sits near Wenatchee National Forest and offers views of Mount Baldy and the rest of the Cascades.

Like Okemo Mountain Resort in Vermont, Suncadia is promoting winter sports as a way to extend the recreation season for its golf courses. Even Suncadia's Tumble Creek Golf Course, along a bluff above the Cle Elum River and usually reserved for resort homeowners, is open to the public for free skiing.

A modest ice rink seems most appropriate for beginner skaters, and the free dogsled ride is brief. But all the activities taken together should keep any family busy for a few hours. You don't have to worry about long lines.

Tranquility on the trails

Spread over 6,400 acres, Suncadia can feel overwhelming, especially with few signs pointing to activity locations.

A good starting point? Head to the Inn at Suncadia, the resort's overnight lodging. Many winter activities are anchored around here. Ask the concierge for directions and a trail map.

The kid-friendly environment means you might dodge some stray snowballs, see kids sledding down the hills and hear some background noise similar to that of a school recess.

But tranquility can be had along the 10-mile network of groomed trails. Strap on some cross-country skis or snowshoes.

The sawing and hammering heard along the trail is inevitable with new developments. But ski deep enough into the woods and you'll find long stretches where the only sounds heard are birds chirping, pine cones falling and your skis sliding.

The mostly-flat trails through woods of pine and fir are suited to skiers of beginner to intermediate skills.

Driven by the dogs

Eventually, most visitors, especially kids, will seek out the dogsled rides.

Earlier this season, dogsled racer Porter, 56, of East Wenatchee, struck a deal with resort officials for access to Suncadia to train his dogs. In exchange, he gives visitors free dogsled rides.

"It's a chance for us to get some muscles on the dogs," said Porter, who has competed in more than 20 races the last eight years.

Porter brings 14 of his 25 dogs to the track every weekend. The dogs get so excited that their first lap feels like a mad dash to the finish line. But after they settle down, the ride gets slower and is gentle enough for children — making for a good photo opportunity.

When snow falls, his thick brown beard turns white, and Porter looks like Santa Claus out there.

A handyman by trade but a racer at heart, Porter dreams of running the Iditarod before he dies. He has bred or raised several dogs with Iditarod pedigrees, including Mary and Suzy, a pair of Siberian huskies who under other mushers have twice finished that treacherous 1,150-mile dog race in Alaska.

On a recent Saturday morning, with his two daughters and wife watching on, Porter took his dogs on the first run. It has become his Zen thing.

"I used to race dirt bikes, but I'm not getting young anymore," he said. "This is a good fit for me."

"Haw," he shouted, an order for his dogs to turn left. Their paws sprayed the snow back toward the sled.

"When I'm out here, everything kind of gets left behind," he said. "I forget all the problems in the world. It's just so peaceful for me."

Seattle Times staff reporter Tan Vinh is a regular contributor to Northwest Weekend. Contact him: tvinh@seattletimes.com or 206-515-5656.