When did putting on a jacket get so complicated?

Not so long ago, there were two basic kinds of jackets: waterproof shells — made of Gore-Tex and other rain-repelling wonders — and fleece, that beloved creation of the late 20th century that gave a whole new meaning to "warm and fuzzy." Maybe you had two or three fleece jackets for different levels of warmth (Polartec 100, 200 or 300 weight) and maybe you had a couple of different shells (one bombproof three-layer for serious wet conditions, and one light two-layer for everyday use).

Not anymore. A few years ago, a new category of outerwear began to spring up: softshells. In theory, softshell products are essentially hybrids between traditional "hard-shell" waterproof/breathables and fleece. That has proven to be a good thing, for the most part, but it is not as simple as having just one new kind of coat.

The softshell jacket category has yet to be effectively defined — one company's softshell is another firm's raincoat. So rather than try to define the category, we decided to have a group of outdoor recreationists use a bunch of jackets made from the latest and greatest fabrics — materials that form the core of the softshell category. We included a bunch of makes and models, to get a sense of the functionality of the various fabrics as well as a look at how different manufacturers are presenting these 21st-century fabrics.

We started late last winter, and asked gear makers for samples of this fall's lineup.

Our half-dozen testers — all hardcore outdoors lovers, but all virtually clueless about this category of jackets — used the samples while hiking, canoeing, climbing, skiing, snowboarding, boating, paragliding, sailing and biking.

The group found some really good things to say about this new, evolving category, but also found some areas of concern. And, thanks to the fickle, fast-moving world of fashion, a couple of the samples have already disappeared from the market or changed names — we'll note substitutes.

A jacket's fabric is a primary factor in how it's used — whether it's flexible, waterproof, windproof, etc. — and fabric innovations have led the marketplace. So we've broken out results by fabric type, with a listing of manufacturers and jacket models we tested for each fabric:

The fabric: Schoeller Dryskin Extreme

The jackets:

• Cloudveil Serendipity

• Cloudveil Black Ice

• Marmot Sphere

• MEC Ferrata

Cloudveil is generally credited with introducing softshell technology to the United States outdoor market several years ago with its groundbreaking Serendipity jacket ($225). That jacket is still a fan favorite. Credit, in large part, the fabric: Schoeller's Dryskin Extreme offers four-way stretch for great fit and mobility. Couple that with high abrasion resistance, and Dryskin is a great product for climbing — where aerobic workout meets highly abrasive surfaces. The face of the fabric sheds all but the heaviest rains, while the fleece inner face tends to pull moisture off your base layer. It is wind-resistant, but not windproof, so on blustery days, you will feel the wind bite. With light insulation, the fabric is a solid three-season option.

Cloudveil's Black Ice jacket ($295) is an ideal climber's jacket. The Dryskin fabric fits close to the body to prevent it from snagging on edges of rock or ice, while the form-fitted hood snugs down over a climbing helmet with a single tug on the drawstring.

We also tested the Marmot Sphere jacket, popular with our female testers because its loose fit allowed a bit more layering underneath on cool mornings. But the Sphere — don't look now — was discontinued this month. A similar jacket of the same fabric is the MEC Ferrata ($130 Canadian, currently about $110 U.S.), from Mountain Equipment Co-op, the Canadian equivalent of REI. It offers a clean, simple design, but fits close to the body, so layering underneath is difficult. But the tapered fit means it doesn't bunch when layers are added over the top — so it's an affordable substitute.

The fabric: Polartec Power Shield

The jackets:

• Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hoody (with hood)

• REI Mistral II

• GoLite Momentum

Power Shield was Malden Mills' first offering specifically for the softshell category. The fabric boasts a smoother face than the Schoeller product, but it doesn't match Schoeller's four-way stretchiness. The material is, however, fully windproof and essentially waterproof (it's not 100 percent waterproof, because the seams on the jackets aren't sealed). The inner surface of Power Shield usually is a soft face reminiscent of traditional fleece.

After extensive testing, Doug Stroop of Cashmere, Chelan County — a professional paragliding instructor, recreational skier and enthusiastic cyclist — dubbed the Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hoody ($350) his favorite jacket, ever.

"I love the way this jacket fits," Stroop said. "It moves easily and doesn't bind anywhere."

He noted that its weather protection combined with a lack of significant insulation make it well-suited for backcountry skiing and other aerobic cold-weather pursuits in which you generate your own heat. And windproofness makes it good for wind sports.

Edmonds-based Chris Bloomquist praised the REI Mistral II ($139), which he tested while boating and hiking. The Mistral has a fuller cut than the Arc'teryx — which is very athletically tapered — making the Mistral more versatile, allowing for layering underneath. It also lacks a hood for those who prefer to be hoodless.

Denise Reed of Cashmere loved the form-fitting GoLite Momentum ($250) for highly aerobic activities such as trail running. It cut the wind and kept her warm without excess bulk or weight. A nice single-layer for energetic activities in the spring and fall.

The fabric: Polartec Wind Pro

The jackets:

• Mountain Hardwear Ozone

• Cloudveil Wister

• Ground Cinder

Polartec's Wind Pro feels like traditional fleece. Until you get into the wind with it. Standard fleece jackets are great insulators, but only if they aren't directly exposed to wind, because breezes gust right through them. Wind Pro, while not fully windproof, cuts as much as 75 or 80 percent of the wind, creating a more versatile jacket that breathes incredibly well, but which also stands up to modest gusty spring and fall conditions. Wind Pro's increased wind protection comes from its manufacturing — the fibers are spun closer together, creating fewer, and smaller, gaps that let wind through. Because it is denser, it also does a better job of shedding rain than traditional fleece. The testers liked Wind Pro as an insulating layer that could comfortably be worn as a stand-alone in typical Northwest three-season weather (light rains, modest winds, cool temperatures) during most activities. Its breathability makes it suitable for cool-weather, high-aerobic activities like snowshoeing or backcountry skiing, but its insulating properties make it comfortable for other sports that aren't so high-energy, such as hiking.

The Mountain Hardwear Ozone ($115) highlights all the benefits of this fabric. The jacket features a one-hand drawcord at the waist and comfortably snug wrist cuffs made from Power Shield to seal the jacket around your body to trap in warmth and further enhance the wind resistance of the fabric. As a hiker who works up a sweat, I appreciated this jacket on cold March days. Its breathability let my body vent as needed on climbs, but the wind resistance and total protection from light rains made stopping for rests comfortable.

Denise Reed enjoyed the Cloudveil Wister ($195) while hiking the hills above Wenatchee and Leavenworth, and Doug Stroop called the Cinder jacket from Ground "a great jacket for hanging around camp — it's super comfortable, and does a good job keeping you warm even in light wind and rain." (Ground has since replaced its Cinder jacket with the Strata, the same design but with a reconfigured hood, for $160).

The fabrics:

• Polartec Windbloc

• W. L. Gore Windstopper

The jackets:

• Patagonia R4 Lite

• Mountain Hardwear Alchemy • Mountain Hardwear Link

Windbloc and Windstopper are similar products from different manufacturers. Both are effective weather-beaters. They are windproof, and because the wind is blocked by a thin membrane within the core of the fleecy material, both products are essentially waterproof, too (though without sealed seams, garments are not technically waterproof). Windstopper and Windbloc differ from Power Shield — which also seals out wind and rain — in that they have a more traditional fleece feel and generally greater insulation value. As a result, the testers liked the Windbloc/Windstopper products for more extreme (cold/wet) weather and lower-energy activities. Not all Windbloc/Windstopper is created equally, however. This type of fabric can look and feel almost identical to traditional, nappy fleece, but it can also be configured with a smoother "hard face."

The Patagonia R4 ($190) was a favorite of tester Donna Meshke. As someone who easily gets cold, she appreciated the weather-blocking nature of the jacket as well as the insulating factor. The jacket features a thinner panel in the armpits to increase breathability in that high-moisture zone. The biggest complaint about the R4 was the simple elastic wrist cuffs. An adjustable cuff would allow users to better seal out the elements or loosen sleeves for better ventilation.

Meshke called the Mountain Hardwear Alchemy ($240) "the ultimate softshell for cold-blooded hikers." The microfleece lining makes the jacket feel as warm and comfortable as a fluffy fleece jacket, she said. The Alchemy is cut close to the body, without being constrictive.

I found the new Mountain Hardwear Link jacket ($160, named for local climber Robert Link) to be a phenomenal jacket for days when the cold winds seem to penetrate everything else. The Link jacket sports a full, comfortable cut and the lofty Windstopper fleece provides outstanding warmth and solid protection from the elements. A clean, uncluttered design makes it very comfortable when carrying a pack — no pocket zippers catching under pack straps. The jacket could use some additional ventilation options since it is very warm, but used in the cold for which it was designed, it's perfect.

The fabric: Polartec Thermal Pro

The jacket: Arc'teryx Covert Cardigan

Thermal Pro sheds mists and light rains, but generally isn't a weather-beater so much as a straight insulator. Indeed, Thermal Pro is one of the closest relatives to classic synthetic fleece. It's greatest strength is superb insulation with less bulk and weight than traditional fleece. It also has the edge over classic fleece in that its outer face can be styled in an array of "looks," including traditional fleece, nappy imitation wool, and even a corduroylike finish. Thermal Pro provides more insulation per ounce than standard fleece, meaning it puts less weight in your pack for the same degree of warmth in camp.

The Arc'teryx Covert Cardigan ($149) was a big hit with the women. Denise Reed loved the wool-like texture, and the stylish cut and fit. "Its almost too nice for the trail. It's really sharp looking."

It also performs. The sweater moves comfortably through a range of motion, the testers said, proving equally comfortable when snowboarding, hiking, paragliding or just lounging in camp. They would like to see it available in more colors, and more style options beyond the cardigan.

For the purpose of review, gear manufacturers lend products to the Times' freelance reviewer, who returns products after a typical use of 4-6 weeks. There is no payment from manufacturers and they have no control over the content of reviews. Dan A. Nelson is a regular contributor to Backpacker magazine, and an author of outdoor guides with The Mountaineers Books. He lives in Puyallup. If you have gear-related questions, you may e-mail Dan at: gearguy@adventuresnw.net.