In a land imbedded with danger, troops still giving thanks

AL-TAJI CAMP, Iraq — For American soldiers serving in the most dangerous place on Earth, Thanksgiving brought gratitude for life's pleasures: an autumn leaf mailed from home, a love note in an e-mail inbox, the taste of pumpkin pie.

The dining halls of this outpost were transformed Thursday into a cozy shelter from the war that raged outside. The walls were bedecked with streamers in fall's golden hues, and chow lines overflowed with turkey and dressing.

It was yet another bloody day in Iraq, and all the more reason to give thanks, said soldiers from the Army's homebound 4th Infantry Division and the recently returned 1st Cavalry Division.

"Most of them are just thankful to be able to survive each day. They're thinking about their families, but they're also thinking about the mission," said Brig. Gen. Vincent Brooks, deputy commander of the 1st Cavalry Division. "They're trying to turn the violence around, but this country is right on the edge. Iraq has enormous potential if people would stop killing each other."

The rigors of war cast a pall even over the festivities at al-Taji Camp, where troops were on "blackout," banned from making holiday calls home because of a soldier's suicide this week. Blackouts are standard procedure intended to prevent relatives from learning prematurely about a soldier's death.

Many soldiers relied on PlayStation tournaments, poker games, football-watching parties, spy novels and prayer to take their minds off the family dinners they were missing at home. Others looked inward.

"My favorite, favorite season in Minnesota is fall," said Sgt. Nuala Taylor, 32, of Savage, Minn., whose son mailed her two stones and a leaf.