Russians able to fake it like no one else

MOSCOW — Always wanted to brag to your friends about your trip to Brazil, but couldn't afford to go? No problem.

For $500, nobody will believe you weren't sunning yourself last week on Copacabana Beach, just before you trekked through the Amazon rain forest and slept in a thatched hut. Hey! That's you, arms outstretched like Kate Winslet on the bow of the Titanic, on top of Corcovado.

Persey Tours barely was keeping bill collectors at bay before it started offering fake vacations last year. Now it's selling 15 a month — providing ersatz ticket stubs, hotel receipts, photos with clients' images superimposed on famous landmarks, and a few souvenirs for living-room shelves.

If the customer is an errant husband who wants his wife to believe he's on a fishing trip, Persey offers not only photos of him on the river, but a cellphone with a distant number, a few dead fish on ice and a lodge that — if anyone calls — will swear the husband is checked in but not available.

Of course, it's not the real thing. But in Russia, this is a distinction that easily can drift into irrelevance. If there is a world capital of audacious fabrication, it must be Moscow, where fake is never a four-letter word.

Forget fake Rolexes and Gucci bags — that's kids' stuff. Russian entrepreneurs offer million-dollar fake Ivan Shishkin paintings, forged passes to the Kremlin bearing President Vladimir Putin's apparent signature, false medical-school diplomas and alley cats palmed off for $300 as "Siberian purebreds."

An old-fashioned brawl at a wedding can be had for $300 to $400. ("If you read any book about traditional weddings in Russian history, there must be a fight," said Alexander Yermilov, 22, who recently made a living at it.)

Any Russian market is likely to contain jars of malodorous fish eggs masquerading as $100 beluga caviar; fizzy tap water bearing the label of a rare mountain spring; "wine" containing grape juice and cheap alcohol, affixed with exclusive French labels; and pricey Japanese cellphones or Sony PlayStation 2 consoles that were assembled on the outskirts of Moscow.

International experts say 12 percent of pharmaceutical drugs in Russia are counterfeits. In one recent study, a large proportion of the headache remedies examined contained no active ingredients.

The Ministry of Economic Development and Trade has estimated that 50 percent of all consumer goods sold in Russia are fake; the counterfeit trade, Minister German Gref announced in January, has reached $4 billion to $6 billion a year — no one knows exactly, because the books are cooked.

American trade officials, who for years have battled rampant piracy of U.S.-licensed DVDs and CDs in Russia, say the situation has worsened. Russia is the world's biggest exporter of pirated music products — many brazenly manufactured behind the locked gates of former military bases.

"What you're witnessing on the piracy front is kind of emblematic of what's happening in Russia generally," said Neil Turkewitz, executive vice president of the Recording Industry Association of America. "It's a kind of decision, whether it's an overt one or subconscious, to kind of 'do it on its own terms.' And that you don't really need to play by the rules of the international community to move forward."

Every Russian must ford a river of flimflam, much of which is tolerated because it makes everyone's life, for the most part, cheaper and more manageable than the real thing.

Moscow's legendary traffic jams, for example, part like the Red Sea for a vehicle with a fake VIP sticker and a flashing blue light on top. (The real ones are issued only to important government officials, but if you have a big black Mercedes with tinted windows, who's going to know?)

Stickers in the subway also offer fake work permits, fake certificates for free health care and "help" getting a heavy-equipment operator's license. For the reasonable sum of $18.50 a year, drivers can buy a perfectly legal-looking liability insurance policy to show if they're stopped by police.

False diplomas and term papers are the busy student's way of getting over that last hurdle at school. Even Putin's doctoral dissertation, researchers from the Brookings Institution revealed this year, contained major sections lifted from a text published by academics from the University of Pittsburgh.

The revelations barely were repeated in the Moscow press, not because they were scandalous, but because they weren't — government officials routinely rely on fake dissertations patched together by underlings.

Yuri Lubimov, adviser to the economic development minister on piracy issues, said to understand the Russian public's appetite for fakes, one must understand the importance of appearances.

"It's like the French notion of faire montrer. It's better to look like something than to be something. It's a very Eastern way of thinking," he said. "I know people here who have not very much money at all, but he will buy a very big car so that other people will see that he's rich, he's powerful."

Or maybe, that he has a photo proving he was on the Great Wall of China during his last vacation, wearing his "Adidas" sport shoes and his "Dior" sunglasses.

The issue of counterfeiting reached a crisis of sorts late last month, when government officials, in what was said to be an attempt to crack down on the huge quantity of fake wine on the market, issued new excise stamps and declared that all old, easily copied stamps no longer would be valid.

Wine-store shelves were left nearly empty; merchants and buyers alike flew into a panic. It suddenly seemed possible that even fake wine was better than no wine at all.

Blame was thrown equally at sluggish bureaucrats, greedy customs officials and corrupt inspectors — the main engines of the status quo, when it comes to fakery in Russia.

"To maintain a struggle with fakes in the market, you need to have a well-functioning system of law-enforcement organs, a good judicial system, a customs system. All of this is lacking," said Dmitry Yanin, head of the Confederation of Consumer Societies in Russia. "I think everyone understands that there will be no qualitative change on the market in fakes in Russia."

Dmitry Popov, founder and chief executive of Persey Tours, certainly hopes not. Last year, he made $2,000 helping a Siberian gas-station owner convince his friends that he had rented a ride on the Russian space shuttle to the moon.

"Of course he was smiling when he ordered this," Popov said. "But he paid."

Los Angeles Times reporter Sergei L. Loiko contributed to this report.