Marshmallow Fluff the focus of sticky debate

LYNN, Mass. — Much of Don Durkee's 80-year life has been Fluff.

His father first began peddling Marshmallow Fluff — a gooey, spreadable, sticky delight — door to door in 1920 and later founded a family business to make it. Ever since, New England schoolchildren have grown up on Fluffernutter sandwiches — peanut butter and a layer of marshmallow on bread.

Now, in its home state of Massachusetts, Fluff has come under fire. A state senator proposed limiting its availability in school lunchrooms to once a week, horrified at the prospect of it being a daily staple of kids' diets. Another lawmaker jumped to Fluff's defense, nominating the Fluffernutter as the official state sandwich.

Durkee, who now leads his family's company and churns out Fluff by the ton inside the Durkee-Mower headquarters in Lynn, isn't one for the spotlight. He's content to make Fluff and nothing else.

"Like most people, I think it is a little frivolous to bring it to the attention of our governing bodies," Durkee said. "I think obesity is a problem, but I don't think it can be legislated."

The kerfuffle has stirred passions in generations of New Englanders who fondly associate Fluff with their childhood, while others question its place in an increasingly obese country.

Fluff's allure isn't up for debate. Even state Sen. Jarrett Barrios, the lawmaker who proposed limiting Fluffernutter sandwiches in schools, says he has it at home.

"He loves Fluff as much as the next legislator," said Barrios aide Colin Durrant.

State Rep. Kathi-Anne Reinstein announced her own legislation designating the Fluffernutter as the official state sandwich. "I'm going to fight to the death for Fluff," she said.

Fluff was invented in the Somerville kitchen of Archibald Query, who sold it door to door just before World War I.

In 1920, two veterans of the war — H. Allen Durkee and Fred L. Mower — bought the recipe from Query for $500. The pair began driving around looking for customers. Back then, a gallon of the stuff sold for about $1; these days, a 16-oz. jar goes for a little more than $2.

Fluff has always been just four ingredients: corn syrup, sugar, dried egg white and vanilla. "I can't tell you how long we whip it for," Durkee said. "That's about the only part of the trade secret."

More than 50 percent of the Fluff sold is in New England and upstate New York, said Durkee, who wouldn't disclose exact figures. However, as Northeasterners move west and south — and supermarket chains merge — Fluff has followed.

"Fluff has gone through so many generations — parents, children — so many people grew up on it," Durkee said. "It's convenient. And kids like it."