Philly cheesesteak joint tells customers: Yo, speak English, will youse?

PHILADELPHIA — Bistec con queso? Not at Geno's Steaks.

An English-only ordering policy has thrust one of Philadelphia's best-known cheesesteak joints into the national immigration debate.

Geno's — which together with its chief rival, Pat's King of Steaks, forms the epicenter of an area described as "ground zero for cheesesteaks" — has posted signs telling customers, "This Is AMERICA: WHEN ORDERING 'SPEAK ENGLISH.' "

This is, by the way, at a restaurant in a South Philadelphia immigrant neighborhood.

"They don't know how lucky they are. All we're asking them to do is learn the English language," said Geno's owner, Joseph Vento, 66.

Vento, whose grandparents struggled to learn English after immigrating from Sicily in the 1920s, said he posted the sign about six months ago amid concerns over immigration and the increasing number of customers who could not order in English when they wanted Philly's gooey, greasy specialty: fried steak, sliced or chopped, in a long roll, with cheese and fried onions.

Of course, it's not as if native Philadelphians speak the King's English either. A Philadelphian might order a cheesesteak by saying something such as, "Yo, gimme a cheesesteak wit, will youse?" To which the counterman might reply: "Youse want fries widdat?"

The traditionally Italian community near Geno's has become more diverse over the decades. Immigrants from Asia and Latin America have moved in, joining longtime residents and young professionals seeking reasonably priced row houses. In the past 10 years, 15,000 to 20,000 Mexican immigrants — many in the country illegally, community leaders say — have settled in South Philly.

Vento said his staff is glad to help non-native speakers order in English and has never turned someone away because of a language barrier.

But the policy has "really upset a lot of people," said Brad Baldia of Day Without An Immigrant, a coalition of immigrant groups.

Juntos, a Hispanic neighborhood organization, said it plans to send people to Geno's to try to order in Spanish and may pursue court action, depending on what happens.

Vento said he has gotten criticism and threats. But he plans to hold his ground.

Customers placing orders on a recent morning seemed unfazed.

Angelica Marquez, 22 and originally from Puerto Rico, ordered in English but said some of her relatives struggle with the language.

"They always come and just say 'cheesesteak,' " Marquez said, adding that the policy bothers her some but not enough to keep her away.

Information from Reuters is included in this report