Saudi king opens doors, lifts taboos

RIYADH, Saudi Arabia — The all-black abayas have splashes of bold, glittery color. The book fair opened its doors to once-banned books. And stuffy government-run TV stations have started to play music, forbidden for decades.

In the seven months since Saudi Arabia's new monarch, King Abdullah, took the throne, there have been small but striking signs that he is leading his country toward more openness.

"He wants to turn this nation from a one-way country in which conservatives have the upper hand into a two-way state where both liberals and Islamists can express themselves," Saudi analyst Dawood al-Shirian said.

No one expects Abdullah's ride to be smooth, though. He needs to keep the reform momentum going despite reported differences within the royal family over the pace and direction of change.

In addition, he must worry about militants still active in Saudi Arabia. Islamists are expected to create trouble because of the perceived dilution of their power as more voices are allowed to be heard.

The March book fair is an example. For the first time, female writers met their fans, shoppers bought formerly banned books dealing with communism, sex and other delicate topics, and families went together during newly designated family days. In previous years, the 14-day fair was a male-only event, with a few half-days set aside for women.

"King Abdullah sent a powerful message during the book fair that indicated that everyone, and not only the religious establishment, will be involved in decision-making," al-Shirian said.

But the event was marred by the aggressive, organized presence of religious extremists who had monopolized such occasions. They ordered two female authors to cover their faces as they signed books. They demanded that salesmen refrain from discussing books with female shoppers or smiling at them.

Abdullah became king in August after the death of his half brother, King Fahd. Although he had been de facto ruler since 1995, when Fahd suffered an incapacitating stroke, Abdullah, 82, was always seen as an acting leader.

Now, however, he is the country's undisputed leader and one of its most popular.

Along with the music new to government-run TV, female journalists now can interview men, appearing on the same set despite the country's strict gender-segregation rules. Female experts are no longer limited to discussing social issues on TV.

Newspapers and officials discuss items that were taboo before, prominent among them the issue of women driving. Saudi Arabia is believed to be the only country where women are banned from driving.

Abdullah is also encouraging dialogue among various sectors of society. A few months ago, a public discussion among representatives of minority groups was televised live, allowing Saudis to hear little-heard views including those of Shiites, who are considered heretics by the conservative Wahhabi stream of Islam the country follows.

On the streets of Riyadh, the red, purple and yellow of blooming desert flowers are now found on black abayas, the cloaks women have to wear in public. A few months ago, most of the cloaks in Riyadh were unadorned, conforming to the strict guidelines laid out by the religious establishment.

Abdullah set the tone for his rule when — in his first act as king — he freed three intellectuals and two teachers jailed for their reformist views. He then gave Saudis their first raise in 22 years and issued a decree banning the kissing of his hand and addressing of him as "majesty." He also allowed women to run and vote in their first elections, the chamber of commerce polls.

The king also is believed to be keeping tabs on how the government is spending large sums, and trying to cut spending by the extended members of the royal family, part of his focus on improving the economy and lowering unemployment.