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Friday, December 30, 2005 - Page updated at 01:13 PM You're where?The Associated Press
BAGHDAD, Iraq — Maybe it was when the taxi dumped him at the Iraq-Kuwait border, leaving him alone in the middle of the desert. Or when he drew a crowd at a Baghdad food stand after using an Arabic phrase book to order. Or the moment a Kuwaiti cab driver almost punched him when he balked at the $100 fare. But at some point, Farris Hassan, 16, realized that traveling to Iraq from Florida by himself was not the safest thing he could have done on his Christmas vacation. And he didn't even tell his parents. Hassan's dangerous adventure winds down with the 101st Airborne delivering the Fort Lauderdale teen to the U.S. Embassy in Baghdad, which had been on the lookout for him and promises to see him back to the United States this weekend. It begins with a high-school class on "immersion journalism" and one overly eager — or naively idealistic — student who's lucky to be alive after going way beyond what any teacher would ask. As a junior this year at a Pine Crest School, a prep academy of about 700 students in Fort Lauderdale, Hassan studied writers such as John McPhee in the book "The New Journalism," an introduction to immersion journalism — a writer who lives the life of his subject in order to better understand it. Diving headfirst into an assignment, Hassan, whose parents were born in Iraq but have lived in the United States for about 35 years, hung out at a local mosque. The teen, who says he has no religious affiliation, said he even spent an entire night until 6 a.m. talking politics with a group of Muslim men, a level of "immersion" his teacher characterized as dangerous and irresponsible. The next trimester his class was assigned to choose an international topic and write editorials about it, Hassan said. He chose the Iraq war and decided to practice immersion journalism there, too, though he knows his school in no way endorses his travels. "I thought I'd go the extra mile for that, or rather, a few thousand miles," he said. Using money his parents had given him, he bought a $900 plane ticket and took off from school a week before Christmas vacation started, skipping classes and leaving the country on Dec. 11. His destination: Baghdad. Those privy to his plans: two buddies.
But underneath that Mideast veneer was a full-blooded American teen. And as soon as the lanky, 6-foot teenager opened his mouth — he speaks no Arabic — his true nationality would have betrayed him. Traveling on his own in a land where insurgents and jihadists have kidnapped more than 400 foreigners, killing at least 39 of them, Hassan walked straight into a death zone. On Tuesday, his first full day in Iraq, six vehicle bombs exploded in Baghdad, killing five people and wounding more than 40. Inside the safety of Baghdad's Green Zone, an embassy official from the Hostage Working Group talked to Hassan about how risky travel is in Iraq. "This place is incredibly dangerous to individual private American citizens, especially minors, and all of us, especially the military, went to extraordinary lengths to ensure this youth's safety, even if he doesn't acknowledge it or even understand it," a U.S. official said on condition of anonymity. Hassan's extra-mile attitude took him from Fort Lauderdale to Kuwait City. His plan was to take a taxi across the border and ultimately to Baghdad — an unconventional, expensive and utterly dangerous route. It was in Kuwait City that he first called his parents to tell them of his plans — and that he was now in the Middle East. His mother, Shatha Atiya, a psychologist, said she was "shocked and terrified." She had told him she would take him to Iraq, but only after the country stabilizes. "He thinks he can be an ambassador for democracy around the world. It's admirable but also agony for a parent," Atiya said. Attempting to get into Iraq, Hassan took a taxi from Kuwait City to the border 55 miles away. He spoke English at the border and was soon surrounded by about 15 men, a scene he wanted no part of. On the drive back to Kuwait City, a taxi driver almost punched him when he balked at the fee. "In one day I probably spent like $250 on taxis," he said. "And they're so evil, too, because they ripped me off, and when I wouldn't pay the ripped-off price they started threatening me. It was bad." It could have been worse — the border could have been open. As luck would have it, the teen found himself at the Iraq-Kuwait line sometime on Dec. 13, and the border security was extra tight because of Iraq's Dec. 15 parliamentary elections. The timing saved him from a dangerous trip. "If they'd let me in from Kuwait, I probably would have died," he acknowledged. "That would have been a bad idea." He again called his father, who told him to come home. But the teen insisted on going to Baghdad. His father advised him to stay with family friends in Beirut, Lebanon, so he flew there, spending 10 days before flying to Baghdad on Christmas. His ride at Baghdad International Airport, arranged by the family friends, dropped him off at an international hotel where Americans were staying. He says he only strayed far from that hotel once, in search of food. He walked into a nearby shop and asked for a menu. When no menu appeared, he pulled out his Arabic phrase book, and after fumbling around found the word "menu." The stand didn't have one. Then a worker tried to read some of the English phrases. "And I'm like, 'Well, I should probably be going.' It was not a safe place. The way they were looking at me kind of freaked me out," he said. It was midafternoon on Tuesday, after his second night in Baghdad, that he sought out editors at The Associated Press and announced he was in Iraq to do research and humanitarian work. Staffers had never seen an unaccompanied teenage American walk into their war-zone office. "I would have been less surprised if little green men had walked in," said editor Patrick Quinn. The AP called the U.S. Embassy. Hassan accepted being turned over to authorities as the safest thing to do but seemed to accept the idea more readily over time. Most of Hassan's wild tale could not be corroborated, but his larger story arc was in line with details provided by friends and family members. Dangerous and dramatic, Hassan's trip has also been educational. He had tea with Kuwaitis under a tent in the middle of a desert. He says he interviewed Christians in south Lebanon. And he said he spoke with U.S. soldiers guarding his Baghdad hotel. His father, Redha Hassan, a doctor, said his son is an idealist, principled and moral. Aside from the research he wanted to accomplish, he also wrote an essay saying he wanted to volunteer in Iraq. He said he wrote half the essay while in the United States, half in Kuwait, and e-mailed it to his teachers Dec. 15 while in the Kuwait City airport. "There is a struggle in Iraq between good and evil, between those striving for freedom and liberty and those striving for death and destruction," he wrote. "Those terrorists are not human but pure evil. For their goals to be thwarted, decent individuals must answer justice's call for help. Unfortunately altruism is always in short supply. Not enough are willing to set aside the material ambitions of this transient world, put morality first, and risk their lives for the cause of humanity. So I will. "I want to experience during my Christmas the same hardships ordinary Iraqis experience every day, so that I may better empathize with their distress," he wrote. "You go to, like, the worst place in the world and things are terrible," he says now. "When you go back home you have such a new appreciation for all the blessing you have there, and I'm just going to be, like, ecstatic for life." His mother, however, sees things differently. "I don't think I will ever leave him in the house alone again," she said. "He showed a lack of judgment." Hassan may not mind, at least for a while. He now understands how dangerous his trip was, that he was only a whisker away from death. His plans on his return to Florida: "Kiss the ground and hug everyone." Copyright © 2005 The Seattle Times Company Most read articles
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