Whatcom County farmers cry foul over out-of-state nuts sold at Washington farmers markets

Washington farmers markets are chock-full of nuts.

There are cashews, pistachios, pecans and almonds. And hazelnuts, like those grown at the Holmquist orchards in Lynden, Whatcom County. They're sold whole or made into butters, flours and oils, with local shoppers and tourists packing them home for snacks and gifts.

But it's not where the nuts go that has the Holmquist family riled up — it's where they come from.

Increasingly, they say, the nuts at the more than 100 farmers markets in Washington are shipped in from other states, and that dupes shoppers who come to the markets expecting to buy locally grown products.

"I can be competing with nuts from Argentina in my market," complains Brian Holmquist, who runs the farm with his father, Gerald, and brother Richard.

How is it, the Holmquists ask the management of the Washington Farmers Market Association, to which nearly all state farmers markets belong, that its regulations can require grapes for making wine to all be grown in Washington but not have a similar rule for items like nut butter?

Or that nuts can be brought in from anywhere, but lettuce, carrots or tomatoes sold at the markets must be raised in Washington?

Isn't the purpose of sustainable agriculture, they ask, buying food close to where it's produced?

Not necessarily, says Laurie Gilbertson, the association's president. The nuts are a food product and no different from taking ground beef from Costco and using it for hamburgers sold at markets, she says.

"Some have spiced almonds or cashews and have added various seasonings," she says. So the product itself is made in Washington, even if some ingredients — the nuts — might come from other places.

Farmers markets are an invaluable way to both sell and promote agricultural products at a time when farming may face higher costs and more challenges than ever, growers say. There are 112 farmers markets in Washington and that total is expected to grow by 20 percent this year, Gilbertson says.

If possible, farmers try to diversify.

The Holmquist hazelnuts are exported to Russia, Egypt and China, the shells sold at garden stores as organic walkway material. Their sweet DuChilly hazelnuts and products made from them appeared to have the corner on the nut market at Seattle-area farmers markets for years.

But gradually, out-of-state nuts made their way in.

Last September, Marilyn Taylor, of Seattle, began selling her nut butters at Kirkland and several other farmers markets, using out-of-state hazelnuts, pecans and other nuts. She said she tried to buy hazelnuts (the only nut that can be commercially grown in this climate) from in-state growers, including the Holmquists, but was unable to find suppliers to meet her needs.

The Holmquists, who see any nut or nut product as competition, weren't pleased to have Taylor enter the ring.

At a time when making a living from any sort of farming is hard, it diminishes profits, Brian Holmquist says.

He lists at least seven markets (Bellevue, Kirkland, Edmonds, Bellingham, University, Mukilteo and Tacoma) that sometimes — suppliers often come and go — have out-of-state nuts or nut products. Seattle's signature Pike Place Market does, too, he says.

The markets, Holmquist says, all boast of fresh, local products but there is nothing local about almonds, cashews, pecans or pistachios, or products made from them.

Nuts from Stackhouse Bros. Orchards, of Hickman, Calif., have sold at Pike Place Market since before the emphasis on local products from local vendors, says Scott Davies, Market spokesman. It's not unlike the vendor of clothing imported from India who continues to sell at the market.

In the 1980s, the Market began moving toward local art and produce but allowed a few of its longterm vendors with out-of-state products to remain.

Where the farmers-market association is concerned, Holmquist hasn't gotten much sympathy.

"In our opinion, he's trying to have exclusive rights. He's not pleased we have other nut growers or sales in the market," says Gilbertson.

Every market makes its own guidelines, she says, but to be a member of the association, markets must observe the state regulations.

Those regulations require farm products to be produced in Washington or counties surrounding the state "as much as possible." Gilbertson says the association plans to revisit its guidelines, but that's not saying they'll be changed to accommodate Holmquist.

There is no means to enforce the association's regulations, although the officials say they can terminate a membership for violations.

For Holmquist, the solution is simple: If farmers markets are going to allow out-of-state nuts, don't tell the public that everything there are local products, he says.

It's deceiving the consumer, he adds, so "change the advertising."

Nancy Bartley: 206-464-8522 or nbartley@seattletimes.com