Beacons developed after 1986 disaster

A climbing accident on Mount Hood in 1986 led to the development of the locator beacon that was key to Monday's rescue of three people on that same mountain.

Called the Mountain Locator Unit, the devices rent for $5, and all commercial climbing guides on Mount Hood must use them.

"I would like to see people use them as much as possible," said Lt. Nick Watt of the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office, who called the devices "a very good, cheap insurance policy."

The 1986 accident occurred during a sudden storm that trapped a group of school students and adults. Nine people froze to death.

The Mountain Locator Units were created soon afterward. They give signals that cover miles, not just a few feet like avalanche beacons. Someone must alert authorities that a climber is missing, and the devices don't offer a quick way to pinpoint a climber's location. But they help rescuers focus on the right area.

It took hours to reach the climbers this weekend in bad weather. Without the beacons, it would have taken much longer, officials said.

Some climbers worry that the Mountain Locator Units offer a false sense of security.

Steve Rollins, of Portland Mountain Rescue, says he generally recommends climbers carry a Global Positioning System (GPS), a cellphone and a Mountain Locator Unit on winter climbs.

Linda Shaw: 206-464-2359 or lshaw@seattletimes.com

Seattle Times staff reporter Hal Bernton contributed to this report.