The skinny — and bootcut — on all things jeans

Most of us own at least one pair of jeans. Some of us are obsessed with them and boast a closetful of denim. A typical American, according to an article on Slate.com, owns seven pairs.

Whatever category you're in, we figured a refresher course in jeans was appropriate because jeans for fall 2008 are all over the board — skinny-leg to wide, high-rise to droopy boyfriend, dark wash to destroyed and distressed.

With the help of Elizabeth Calcagno, owner of jeans mecca Sassy in Lemoyne, Pa., we present Jeans 101:

Leg styles

Skinny: Fits the thigh, gets narrower by the knee, and stays on your calf all the way down; perfect for long or short thin legs. Leg opening is from 10 to 14 inches.

"People who have more muscular legs can wear a skinny, but it's better for them to wear something that's more ankle-length. Most (skinnies) are higher rises now because it accentuates your small waist and downplays your hips."

Straight: There are two types; both have much less tapering around the calf than a skinny. Leg openings are around 16 to 18 inches.

"The boyfriend fit is good for anybody — you wear it loose on your hips, loose on your thighs and then it doesn't hug your calf but it goes straight down. Pretty much anybody who wants to get that straighter silhouette can do that kind of straight leg.

"The [regular straight leg] almost anybody can do, too. It doesn't accentuate your thigh-to-calf ratio; it's just going to go straight all the way up and down."

Bootcut: Your jeans wardrobe staple; originally intended to fit over a knee-high boot. It fits the thigh and then gets wider, either at or above the knee, then widens still more at the ankles. Leg openings are from 18 to 22 inches.

"Anybody can wear a bootcut. It's our number-one seller — it will never go out of style. When people first get into jeans, they should definitely go with a bootcut — it elongates legs and makes everybody look good."

Flare or bellbottom: A retro look, snug through the thighs and knees, and flaring wide at the bottom. Definitely a trend.

"You just have to try them. You should have long legs [too] — you don't want to be a petite girl and wear a bellbottom."

Wide leg: A trouser-type style with a fluid leg that starts widening at the knee.

"A wide-leg is a fashion statement; I don't think it's going to go out of style. It's good for tall girls. A girl who has a thicker leg, it really is not going to accentuate her thighs. It's good for thinner, medium-build, and bigger girls. Tall, skinny girls can wear them, too."

A jeans primer

Washing vs. dry-cleaning? Dry-clean jeans only if the tag says to (if they're embellished, for instance). Jeans are intended to be washed and are washed before you get them.

Cold or warm water; hanging to dry vs. drying in the dryer? Always turn jeans inside-out to wash.

To shrink the Lycra if they've stretched, wash them in warm or hot water separately and put them in the dryer. If you're happy with the fit, wash them in cold water and line-dry.

Should you wash jeans every time you wear them? A personal decision based on how much they stretch. Calcagno washes and dries hers every wearing because they stretch out, but some people don't have to.

Should you iron your jeans? If you like a crease, yes. If you hang them to dry, you can iron them a little. If it's a boyfriend or bellbottom style, the wrinkles are part of the look. And if it's a dressier pair, do press them.

How do you know they fit? You don't want your hips hanging out. You want them tight, but the zipper must lie flat. They should feel on your thighs almost as if they're a half-size too small; you want a clean fit all the way down your thigh.

On the back of the thighs, the fabric shouldn't dent your skin (which means they're too tight). Anything pushing out of your jeans means they're too tight.

How many pairs should you try on? "If you're after one pair of jeans — you know the purpose for which you're buying it, you know the wash, and you have help — it doesn't take five pairs," Calcagno said. "Sometimes it does because you don't know what you want."

Allow at least half an hour to shop.

What is the most popular style? Bootcut by a mile; it's the most flattering to all.

How do you avoid waist gapping? If this happens to you when you try on jeans, you probably have a smaller waist as compared with your hips. So choose a higher rise (the lower the rise, the more gapping). Or go down a size, or try a different brand.

Stretch jeans or rigid (nonstretch) ones? Rigid denim is usually found in boyfriend-style jeans; it's casual, made to be ripped and have a baggy fit. But stretch, Calcagno says, "is definitely the best fit on your butt — it's the sexiest."

High-waist vs. low rise? Rises are creeping up, Calcagno says. Young girls still want a mid- to low-rise, but a mid-rise is more flattering for most women.

What are the most flattering rear pockets for your, well, rear? If you have a flat behind, look for flap back pockets or any pocket that will add dimension. Stay away from smaller pockets or no pockets.

If you have a larger backside, you can pretty much wear anything, but stick to pockets that sit correctly on you, which means try them on and see where they are.

Faded vs. dark? A clean medium-dark to dark wash is always more flattering for day and to dress up at night; it's a good starter look. Faded is fun for a weekend-type jean, something to add to your jean collection.

What about colored jeans? If you're bored with blue denim, choose gray or black. White jeans, contrary to popular belief, look great all year round, not just in the summer.