Men, don't pile on the jewelry — be cool

NEW YORK — There's a fine line not to be crossed when men wear jewelry. Too much can be a put-off but a little glimpse of shine under the collar or cuff can be powerful or even sexy.

A watch is the entry point for most men in the jewelry market. It's an item they're expected to wear, but they have it more for show now than practicality.

"You don't need one so much," says hip-hop and fashion mogul Russell Simmons, who launched Simmons Jewelry in 2003. "It's more like a bracelet. They (men) get the time from their phone or their BlackBerry, so now a watch is basically jewelry."

From there, it's not a far leap to a bracelet, says Simmons, who alternates between two — one a malachite and rough-diamond bracelet from his company's Green Initiative Collection that raises money for educational programs in Africa, the other a steel bracelet with diamonds.

Something smaller like cuff links or a belt buckle, however, will be less showy.

"A man can say of these, 'It's jewelry, but it's not what my wife wears,' " says Ori Zemer, vice president of Charriol North America, a fine jeweler.

Belts in particular seem in line with trends because they're a way to be brand identified — he notes Prada and Gucci offer signature buckles — but without being blinged out.

Men who are more comfortable wearing traditional jewelry also might consider a jazzed up ring, perhaps a wedding band with diamonds or a ring with nautical-style roping. "The roping is a little rugged," says Zemer. "It works for a man who is going to the office or a construction worker. It's wearable, durable and a cool statement."

Celebrity stylist Mary Alice Stephenson, holds up rapper T.I. as an example of jewelry gone right: "He's subtle. He wears one simple chain or a sliver bracelet. More people can pull that off whether you're T.I. or John Doe from Wall Street."

It reads confidence, she says.

If the look feels contrived, though, it will stick out.

"People will ask, 'Why is that guy doing it?' " Stephenson says.

A necklace with a cross, Star of David or an om can make a serious statement.

"I have an om — that sold out — but it might be part of a whole devotional collection we're developing," says Simmons. "It's a simple idea and it makes good sense. The cross is the same."