Patent leather makes rounds on party circuit

By Samantha Critchell
The Associated Press

KATE SPADE Kate Spade's patent leather party shoes have a matte bow detail. The resulting blend is sophistication and surprise, she says.

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NEW YORK — One dressing dilemma is solved by patent leather: When you're headed out to a celebration of any sort, pull those shiny patent pumps out of the closet and you'll see the party has already started.

"There is something very celebratory and festive about patent leather," says accessories designer Kate Spade. "It goes back to the days of patent leather Mary Janes, which were your party shoes as a child."

But patent leather isn't limited to black and boring.

This season, Spade offers a classic patent pump shape with a matte satin ribbon in both black and a festive silver, and there's a patent sling-back sandal with a pink and black raffia flower for embellishment.

"I love the shine of patent leather mixed with a matte finish detail. The mix adds an element of sophistication to the surprise of patent," Spade says.

Patent leather isn't limited by season or trend, adds Reed Krakoff, president and executive director of Coach.

	COACH This patchwork tote from Coach mixes fabric with black and wine-colored patent leather squares, and the straps are also wine patent leather.

"Patent leather adds a unique dimension to handbags and accessories. Used as a subtle accent or a primary material, patent is both festive and fashionable," he adds.

Jimmy Choo's current collection features a pointy-toe, stiletto boot in bottle green-colored patent. A more delicate high-heel shoe with grosgrain bow detail is offered in baby blue and pink.

Tamara Mellon, founder and president of Jimmy Choo, says using patent leather in bright colors makes it a more versatile material.

"The great thing about these colors is you can dress them up or down — they look beautiful with pants or skirts during the day, and they look sexy in the evening with short skirts," she says.

It's the high shine that gives patent leather its sex appeal, says Eric Sakas, president of Kevyn Aucoin Beauty, which features a product called Liquid Patent Lip.

	JIMMY CHOO Shiny patent-leather shoes can be appropriate for day or night, says Tamara Mellon of Jimmy Choo.

Sakas says Aucoin, who died in 2002, personally oversaw the development of Liquid Patent because he wanted to be sure it would be shiny without being heavy. Aucoin used a test-version of the product in his book "Face Forward," using a pearlized midnight blue as a stain and adding a more traditional gloss on top.

"Kevyn created it [Liquid Patent] with a high pigment so you can use it as a stain. It's a way to use it if you're a little intimidated straight out of the tube. You put it on as base layer and it creates a cool undertone under gloss. It adds dimension to the lip," Sakas says.

Shiny lips are desirable because they are sexy without being over the top, says Sakas. "Shine always indicates sexiness and is also associated with high glamour."

Copyright © 2004 The Seattle Times Company

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