Handyman | Tips on fixing tight windows, flooded cellars and more

Q: My replacement windows are very hard to open and close. I tried spraying them with WD-40 without success. What else can I do?

A: The WD-40 may not have worked if you did not spray the jambs. Raise each bottom sash and spray the jamb, where the window slides. If there is rubber, felt or vinyl weatherstripping on the jamb, oil may not be a good idea because it could damage the material. Candle wax will do just as well. Keep raising and lowering the sashes; you eventually might loosen them just enough. Or, contact the installer to see if he can loosen them a bit.

Q: My roof has two layers of asphalt shingles, the top layer being about 20 years old. Some of the gravel on the top layer is coming off. Can I repair those bald spots? How long will the roof last with the gravel off?

A: The only repair is to have the roof completely coated with a liquid tar-like composition. This is expensive and I don't think the expense is worth it. Your roof probably has 5 to 10 years of life left, despite the loss of gravel. Replacing the roof at any time is not unreasonable.

Q: The cellar in my house floods with ¼ inch of water about four times a year. The water comes in between the floor and foundation. We have a sump and pump, and when the water comes, I push it with a big squeegee into the sump, where the pump moves it away. I have heard of French drains, both inside and outside. Would they work?

A: The fact that the water comes in between the floor and wall indicates that the water table (underground water) is high, and will go down when it stops raining. A French drain will work but it may cost $5,000 or more. Unless you plan to sell the house, I say save the money and keep pushing the water into the sump on the occasional times it floods.

Peter Hotton has been The Boston Globe's "Handyman on Call"

for 30 years. E-mail questions to photton@globe.com. Sorry, no personal replies.