Home tips on gutter covers, post holes and more

Q: I have a two-story house with rain gutters that are too high for me to clean safely. I'd like to install a gutter-cover system that will eliminate cleaning. Which is the best?

A: There are many gutter-cover systems, some of which are claimed to be free of maintenance or cleaning, but I can't presume to say which is the best. Most of the systems you are considering put a solid cap or cover on the gutter that has an opening only in the front edge — generally a slot or series of slots. Leaves and debris are supposed to wash right over the cover and fall to the ground, while the rain water enters the gutter through the slot or other opening.

Over the years a number of readers who own this type of system have written to me, and the reports were generally favorable. However, there were some complaints that indicate some systems don't always work as claimed and might not be maintenance free.

In heavy rains, some readers said, water cascading down a roof valley or steep roof tended to overshoot the gutter, pouring water close to the foundation. Other readers said small debris such as pine needles and maple seeds tended to get inside the gutters, which eventually required cleaning.

I have tried several different types of screens on my gutters. These have many perforations that are supposed to let water enter the gutter but keep out debris, which theoretically washes off. These also proved to be not maintenance free. Some leaves and twigs stuck in the perforations, and small stuff such as seeds accumulated on the surface and had to be scraped off.

Getting gutter covers installed can be quite expensive, especially if the system requires replacement of the existing gutters (some covers can be installed over existing gutters in good condition). It might pay to get several estimates from leading gutter companies in your area and compare the cost to hiring outside help to clean your existing gutters periodically.

Q: I need to dig a number of post holes for a fence, and am using a clamshell-type hole digger. The soil is very hard and dry and digging a hole is very tough going. Do you have any tips? I know about the big augers that can be rented, but don't want to get into that.

A: The clamshell digger, which has two spade-like blades and two handles, is a great tool if you are working in soft ground. For hard, dry, rocky soil, you need some extra help. I use a long, steel digging bar to loosen the soil, then ram the clamshell blades into the hole to pick up the loose stuff. My digging bar is almost 6 feet long and weighs at least 15 pounds. Even this can be hard going at times. When the going gets really tough, I fill the hole with water and take a break. Give the water plenty of time to soak into the hard soil, and when you return to the hole you will find the digging much easier.

Q: We used a de-icer on our sidewalks last winter that caused pitting in the concrete. How can we fix this?

A: If the pits are not too ugly, the best bet is to try and live with them. Otherwise, resurfacing is the best bet for repairing pitting and minor chips in concrete. This would mean applying a thin coat of resurfacing material over the entire surface. Do-it-yourself resurfacers, such as Quikrete's Concrete Resurfacer, are sold at some home centers and building-supply outlets. This product is applied with a squeegee, or brush, but be warned that the surface must be thoroughly cleaned and in good condition (free of cracks, crumbling and so forth). For more information, visit www.quikrete.com/productlines/concreteresurfacer.asp.

If you use de-icer next winter, try calcium chloride, which is less harmful to concrete and vegetation than some de-icers.

Questions may be sent to Gene Austin at doit861@aol.com. Sorry, no personal replies.