Originally published March 17, 2007 at 12:00 AM | Page modified March 17, 2007 at 2:00 AM
A backsplash can be a thing of beauty, too
Problem: Walls near the kitchen sink or stove that show food splatters or oil stains. Solution: Install a tile backsplash to add a bit of...
Special to The Seattle Times
Problem: Walls near the kitchen sink or stove that show food splatters or oil stains. Solution: Install a tile backsplash to add a bit of beauty and function to your kitchen.
A tile backsplash will protect against countertop spills that would otherwise stain or warp your wallboard and at the same time give your kitchen a cozy flair you can be proud of. Before getting started, look through magazines and go to showrooms to see what you really like. Bring home tile samples to see how well they match your kitchen.
You can even get a little creative and add a mosaic or pattern to your backsplash. If you have children, get them involved by having them paint a few of the ceramic tiles before you install them. Even though a backsplash is functional, it can also be fun.
We're using ceramic tiles for this particular backsplash. Although you can use other materials, ceramic tiles are exceptionally durable and lightweight, meaning you won't have to install an extra support mechanism or be overly concerned about maintenance.
Step 1
Remove everything from your countertops, and cover them and the stove with a plastic tarp to protect them while working. If there are electrical outlets or wall switches here, turn off the power to this area and remove and set aside electrical-outlet covers.
Step 2
Project list
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Tools:
• Tile cutter (or wet saw)
• Tape measure
• Chalk line
• Notched trowel
• Level
• Rounded stick
• Float
• Rubber mallet or blue painter's tape
• Sponge
Supplies:
• Plastic tarp
• Denatured alcohol
• Coarse sandpaper or sanding block
• Stone or porcelain tiles
• Mastic adhesive tape (use Thinset for stone)
• Grout
• Grout sealant
• Lint-free rag
• Gloves
Go over the walls with denatured alcohol to remove any oils. For increased adhesion, sand the walls with a coarse sanding block or sandpaper. Wipe down the area with warm water and allow it to dry completely.
Step 3
Lay out your tile pattern. Be creative — you'll probably be looking at this tile for quite some time.
Depending on the size of your tile and how extensive your design, you may need a tile cutter (which cuts porcelain), a wet saw (which is made for stone, but cuts it all) or both. (You can usually rent a wet saw for $50-$100 a day, and they're easier to use than you think. Most tool-rental centers can show you how to use the tools.)
Score or cut your tile to size using the tile cutter. If you can't get a clean cut, use the wet saw. Be sure to score on the back side if possible, as you won't want your cut lines to be visible.
When laying out the pattern, start by deciding how high you want the backsplash, then find the exact midpoint of the area you will be working on. If this is where you want your pattern focus to be, then move out from there.
The easiest way to do this is with a tape measure and a chalk line. Snap a line at the very top so you know where you can put the adhesive up to, as well as the exact middle.
To find this, snap a horizontal line across in the middle and a second, vertical line in the middle. Where these two lines intersect is the exact center of the area.
Step 4
Now you're ready for the messy stuff! The adhesive you're going to use is easiest to buy premixed, but it typically costs more.
Apply the adhesive to the wall with a notched trowel like you're spreading peanut butter on toast. The notched trowel ensures even distribution and increased suction when you place the tiles, hence the reason for the square notches out of the edge.
Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and spread a thin layer (approximately 1/8-inch deep).
Jane Tip: Spread only as much adhesive as you can cover with tile in 10 minutes. If you have precut your entire pattern, you can start from a corner. Otherwise, start from the middle. Don't forget to use spacers when putting your puzzle together on the wall.
Step 5
Position the tiles by putting the first tile in the center at the base of the backsplash, using a slight twisting motion. Once it's set, place a spacer at each corner of the first tile and cut one end of the spacers off to fit them between the countertop and the bottom of the tile.
You can then push the spacers into the adhesive. Be sure to wipe away any excess that squeezes up along the sides.
While you're putting the tiles on the adhesive, periodically check to see if they are level. Use your level for this task, even if the tile looks level. If you find your tile isn't level, you can still move the tiles around until the adhesive sets. If you find the adhesive is set more than you would like, pull off the tile, scrape off and discard the adhesive below it, and put down some new adhesive. Then just try again.
If you're having trouble getting the tiles to stay up, gently tap them into place with a rubber mallet. This helps add to the suction you're trying to create with the adhesive. If that doesn't work, use blue painter's tape to keep the tiles in place until the adhesive is dry, then remove the tape.
Leave your backsplash alone for 24 hours to allow the adhesive to dry.
Step 6
Now you're ready to grout. First, remove all the spacers. Mix up the grout according to the instructions on the bag. Hold the rubber grout float at a 45-degree angle and move it diagonally across the tile face. This will force the grout between the tiles. You can apply this all over the tile until the spaces are full. Run the rounded stick on top of the grout to help shape it.
If you've used a highly-polished stone or 1/8-inch spacers between each tile, we suggest using a nonsanded grout. If you've used anything larger, use a sanded grout. Be careful, though, as sanded grout can easily scratch a well-polished surface.
Use a clean, damp sponge to wipe off any excess grout on the tiles before it gets a chance to dry. This may take several passes. Rinse the sponge between passes.
Step 7
The grout will take 72 to 96 hours to dry completely.
Jane Tip: In order to prevent cracking, especially with larger grout lines, spray the grout with water in a spray bottle twice a day for the first three days. This way, it has a better chance of drying out from bottom to top.
Step 8
Grout can be extremely susceptible to stains, so be sure to seal it. Most sealers require a 7-to-10-day waiting period after you've grouted before applying.
After a little more than a week, you will have a ready-to-use backsplash. Besides its aesthetic value, it'll help make your kitchen look neat and clean — no more scrubbing grime off the wall! Once you've mastered this project, you'll start eyeing other tiling projects, so start looking for tile now to match the new backsplash.
Be Jane is an occasional home-improvement feature in digs. It's adapted from www.BeJane.com, the online community created by Heidi Baker and Eden Jarrin.
As tools, conditions in the home, materials, products used or the way they are handled can vary widely, in no case will Be Jane or The Seattle Times be liable for personal injury, any property damage or any other loss occurring from the use of this information. The reader is solely responsible to consult with a professional if in doubt.
Copyright © 2007 The Seattle Times Company
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