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Monday, March 12, 2007 - Page updated at 05:03 PM
Be Jane The ABCs of GFCI installationSpecial to The Seattle Times
One of the dangers of working in kitchens and bathrooms is that you are around water and electricity at the same time. You can avoid an accidental shock by installing a GFCI outlet. GFCI stands for "ground fault circuit interrupter," which means there is a small circuit breaker in the outlet that will cut off the power any time there is a surge of electricity. If you have a newer home, it more than likely has these outlets. They look just like regular outlets, only they have test and reset buttons (usually red and black) that "pop" when a surge occurs. GFCI outlets are easy to install and should be in any room where water and electricity may meet. Project steps Step 1: As with any electrical project, begin by turning off the power to that outlet by flipping the breaker to an off position or, if you have a fuse box, removing the fuse completely. Be sure to lock the electrical panel or tell everyone in the house not to turn on the power while you're working. That's a surprise you can do without. Step 2: At the outlet you'll be working on, double-check that the power is off by using a voltage or electrical tester.
Project list
This project takes less than an hour to complete. Here's what you'll need: Tools: • Screwdriver • Wire cutters • Electrical tester • Needlenose pliers Supplies: • GFCI outlet • Wire caps • Electrical tape Step 3: Unscrew the outlet plate and the two screws that hold the outlet into the wall. They are easy to find once you take off the plate. There is one on the top and one at the bottom. Once you've removed them, the outlet should be loose. Pull it out of the junction box (the plastic or metal box it's sitting in). The tension you might feel is normal; it's just the stiffness of the copper wiring. Remove the outlet by loosening the screws that hold the wires in place. Make a note to remember what terminals the existing wires are connected to. This will make installing the new outlet much easier. Step 4: This is where you'll find out whether the outlet is in the middle of a series of outlets and switches, or at the end. The easiest way to tell is by the number of wires attached to it. If it has only three wires, it is the end of a run of outlets and/or plugs. The other possibility is five wires, which tells you that your outlet is in the middle of the series. Find out which of the sets of white and black wires are hot, or the source of electricity for that outlet. To do this, pull apart the wires that were attached to the outlet so that none are touching (even green or bare copper ones). Then turn on the switch at the breaker box. Now very carefully check with your electrical tester to see which wires are hot. Never, under any circumstances, touch the wires with your fingers unless you're absolutely certain there is no power running through them. Once you've figured this out, return to the breaker box and switch it off again. Put small pieces of electrical tape on each of the wires so you won't get confused when you are installing the new outlet. Step 5: Check for "line" and "load" markings on the GFCI outlet. The bottom screws are the "line," meaning this is where power should be coming in. There is a spot for the black wire (sometimes marked with "black wire" or a copper screw) and the neutral or white wire (sometimes marked "white wire" or with a silver screw). The load is the top of the GFCI, and that allows anything down the line to be covered by one GFCI breaker. Attach the appropriate wires to the "line" and "load" screws. Step 6: Screw the green or bare copper ground wire coming from the junction box to the bottom of the GFCI unit or the green GFCI receptacle grounding screw. Wrap electrical tape around the outlet and across the screws before placing it in the electrical box. Step 7: Put the new GFCI outlet into the electrical box, and put in the two screws to hold in place. Don't be surprised if this is harder than you expect. Copper wires are difficult to move around. Make sure to lightly tighten one screw and then go back to the other. If you screw one in completely and then try to do the other one, it won't work. Don't forget the outlet cover to make the job complete. Step 8: Check to see whether the outlet works by turning the power back on and pushing the red Test button on the outlet. If all is well, you should hear a small click or pop (the noise of the small circuit tripping inside the outlet). Push the Reset button and plug in a small appliance or radio to see if the outlet works. If your outlet was in the middle of a string of connected outlets, check to make sure they all still work. If they don't, turn off the power to the outlet and go back to Step 4. After completing a project like this, you've truly accomplished something. After all, electrical work can be scary. We hope that by getting through this project, you start to develop a sense of confidence, which will help carry you through to your next big project. But remember, be confident — never cocky. Cockiness leads to carelessness, and when you're doing home improvement, carelessness can be dangerous. Be Jane is an occasional home-improvement feature in digs. It's adapted from www.BeJane.com, the online community created by Heidi Baker and Eden Jarrin. Disclaimer: As tools, conditions in the home, materials, products used or the way they are handled can vary widely, in no case will Be Jane or The Seattle Times be liable for personal injury, any property damage or any other loss occurring from the use of this information. The reader is solely responsible to consult with a professional if in doubt. Copyright © The Seattle Times Company
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