The essential pantry: Ten must-have ingredients

Great cooks are only as good as what's in their cupboard. Foods from the pantry are the backbone of any meal, whether it's oats for breakfast or polenta for supper.

Pantries that are stocked and organized with care also have the potential to inspire many meals to come. A glance at a colorful can of tuna in olive oil can remind you of an easy pasta recipe you can make without having to shop. A canister of quinoa might spark a memory of a remarkable salad.

We decided to tackle the pantry for this chapter in the Kitchen Essentials series, which started off with a story on cooking techniques (which ran in The Seattle Times Aug. 6, 2008), and was followed by one about kitchen tools (The Seattle Times, Sept. 10).

The pantry list goes beyond basics like kosher salt and panko breadcrumbs (see the link with this story at sfgate.com/food for a list of those); instead, we chose ingredients that are distinctive yet adaptable and add spark to a range of preparations.

The items also differ depending on the type of cooking we do most often. For example, those who cook in a Mediterranean vein are more likely to use aged sherry vinegar from Spain than the Japanese rice wine mirin. Yet with their sweet, complex flavor, both ingredients serve a similar purpose: A splash can help dishes that just need "something."

A few of the ingredients on our list are pricier or harder to find than their generic counterparts, but we offer substitutions. Also, if you spend an extra dollar or two on a quality can of tuna that can turn salad greens into dinner, it might make the difference between using up food you already have and dropping $30 at the corner Thai restaurant.

1. Mirin

Why: This sweet Japanese rice wine is used in many Japanese and Korean dishes. Made from glutinous or sweet rice, it's often added to soups and is an essential component of teriyaki sauce and Korean marinated barbecue-beef dishes such as kalbi (marinated beef short ribs).

In general, mirin can liven up Asian-style salad dressings or any savory sauce, and add a honeyed sweetness to glazes and marinades.

Shopping tips: Most supermarkets carry mirin, as do Japanese and Korean grocers.

Substitutes: Sake, which is normally drier.

Additional use: Use it in an Asian-style salad dressing with peanut oil, sesame oil, sesame seeds and minced garlic.

2. Dark chocolate

Why: The percentage listed on chocolate labels indicates how much of the bar is cocoa mass versus sugar. Bittersweet chocolate usually starts at 70 percent, while semisweet usually tops off at 62 percent. We like to stock our pantry with chocolate in the 65 to 70 percent range because it can be used in a wide range of baking applications. With its fruity flavor and not too much bitterness, this chocolate can also be eaten plain.

Shopping tips: At the high end, El Rey and Valrhona have many versions in this range. Lindt offers a less-expensive version.

Substitutes: Depends on the recipe.

Additional uses:

• Use a microplane grater to shave over desserts.

• Chop into small chunks to use instead of chocolate chips in cookies.

• Place 4 ounces chopped chocolate in a bowl. Heat 6 tablespoons heavy cream in a small saucepan, then pour it over the chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is melted, then use immediately as a glaze for cake or cupcakes or over ice cream.

3. Fish sauce

Why: This Southeast Asian condiment made from fermented anchovies is an essential ingredient in Thai, Vietnamese, Philippine and other Southeast Asian cuisines. Many cooks call on it for a quick shot of umami, the Japanese term for the fifth flavor found in savory, protein-rich foods. It works even for Western pasta sauces, vinaigrettes or fish dishes.

Shopping tips: Some brands available at Asian stores, such as Three Crabs from Vietnam, are milder and less salty than the standard Tiparos brand from Thailand.

Substitutes: Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce (if using as a basic flavor enhancer), anchovy fillets.

Additional uses:

• For nuoc cham, the Vietnamese dipping sauce, combine fish sauce with equal parts water, lime juice and sugar plus a clove of minced garlic. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Place in a serving bowl and float thinly sliced green onions on top. Serve with grilled chicken, spring rolls or rice noodles.

• Combine a small amount of fish sauce with olive oil, capers, lemon juice and garlic for a quick Caesar dressing.

4. Quinoa

Why: Quinoa has gotten a lot of attention as a super grain because of its high protein content and fiber, iron and calcium. Technically, it's a seed from the Andes, not a grain, but is usually included in the whole-grain group. Quinoa takes less than 15 minutes to cook and has a light texture and mild, nutty flavor. It's versatile, a great option for salads, soups and as a more nutritious yet fast-cooking substitute for white rice.

Shopping tips: Quinoa generally requires rinsing before cooking. It can be processed in a way that it loses some of its nutritional value, so compare labels when shopping to get the most nutrition for your buck.

Substitutes: Bulgur, whole wheat couscous.

Additional uses:

• Rinse, then cook in salted water until soft but still with a slight crunch, usually 8-12 minutes. Drain and serve as a side to meats or a vegetarian main course.

• Add a small amount to soups with an extra cup of broth or water during the last 10 minutes of cooking time.

5. Salted capers

Why: Whether puréed into a sauce or sprinkled over hors d'oeuvres, capers add a salty kick to many dishes. We particularly like capers preserved in coarse salt because they have a more nuanced, fruity flavor and a meatier texture than the capers in brine.

Shopping tips: Italian delis, cheese shops and specialty grocers often carry jars of salted capers from Italy. Before using, rinse them thoroughly, soak for 30 minutes in water, then rinse again. Otherwise, brined capers are fine.

Substitutes: Chopped caper berries or salt-cured olives.

Additional uses:

• Make a tuna salad with capers, chopped fennel and some olive oil in place of the mayonnaise.

• Chop finely and add to a buttermilk salad dressing over romaine lettuce with fresh corn, croutons and cherry tomatoes.

• Coat 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts in beaten egg, then in panko breadcrumbs. Brown in butter or olive oil, then remove from the pan and finish baking in a 350-degree oven until cooked through. Remove chicken and add 1/4 cup white wine, 1/2 cup chicken broth and 1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard to the pan, then simmer until reduced by half. Add 2 tablespoons drained capers, heat briefly, then pour sauce over chicken.

6. Chipotle peppers in adobo

Why: Chipotle peppers are smoked and dried jalapeño peppers preserved in a sauce traditionally made of ancho chilis, herbs, spices, sugar, vinegar and often tomatoes. Chipotles are easy to use and add a smoky spiciness to marinades and Mexican sauces.

Shopping tips: Chipotle peppers in adobo are sold in cans in most supermarkets and Mexican markets. They are very spicy, especially if you use the seeds, so sometimes only a 1/2 teaspoon of the purée is enough. Leftovers keep well in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Substitutes: Dried chipotle chilies or chipotle chili powder.

Additional uses:

• Purée a pepper, without seeds for less spice, then add to a homemade tomato sauce and serve as a salsa, or purée again for enchilada sauce.

• Add a few whole peppers and some of the sauce to a pot of beans for a little bit of smoke and heat.

• Purée peppers and add a touch to mayonnaise to accompany roasted potatoes or a Spanish tortilla.

7. Garbanzo beans

Why: Also known as chickpeas, garbanzo beans hold up well in cans, retaining their shape and nutty flavor surprisingly well. Garbanzos offer an easy way to add protein to salads, soups and Middle Eastern dishes.

Shopping tips: A 15-ounce can of garbanzo beans contains about 1 ½ cups beans, after draining and rinsing.

Substitutes: Canned white beans or cannellini beans.

Additional uses:

• Add to a puttanesca sauce with tomatoes, garlic, chili flakes, capers, olives and anchovies. Serve over fusilli or penne, with chopped flat-leaf parsley on top.

• Make a quick hummus by puréeing a 15-ounce can of garbanzos, drained, with a small minced garlic clove, 2 tablespoons tahini, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 3 tablespoons lemon juice and about 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste. Thin as needed with water and serve with a sprinkle of cumin on top.

8. High-quality honey

Why: Sure, the stuff in the plastic bear is fine for squirting into tea or over yogurt. The much more complex and fragrant wildflower honeys, whether orange blossom, lavender or star thistle, add a touch of sweetness to a vinaigrette or sauce, or work as a base for desserts.

Shopping tips: Head to farmers markets for local options; also available at Whole Foods and may other supermarkets.

Substitutes: Pomegranate molasses, pure maple syrup.

Additional uses:

• Use a small amount to balance the acidity from vinegar or citrus juices in a vinaigrette.

• Make an aromatic honey syrup (1 part honey to 1-2 parts water) instead of a traditional simple syrup for cocktails or as a poaching liquid in desserts.

9. Whole-grain mustard

Why: Mustard provides many flavors in one condiment — sweetness, spice, acid and even umami. It helps emulsify salad dressings and adds depth to sauces. Ground mustard is spicier than whole-grain mustard, which is mild enough to coat a meat roast, yet also has enough flavor to punch up a red wine pan sauce.

Shopping tips: French brands Maille, Delouis Fils and Fallot are usually easy to find.

Substitutes: Mild Dijon or coarse-ground mustard.

Additional uses:

• For a savory pie, spread mustard over puff pastry, then layer with thinly sliced tomatoes, sauteed bell peppers or a huge pile of caramelized onions. Scatter the top with thinly sliced shallots and chopped fresh herbs, then bake at 400 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until the pastry is fully cooked.

• Season a beef loin all over with salt and pepper, then coat with whole-grain mustard before roasting.

• Spread on fish fillets, then top with olive oil-seasoned panko crumbs, and bake.

10. Fancy tuna

in olive oil

Why: High-quality imported tuna in olive oil is a whole different breed from most domestic tuna. That's partly because most imported brands are "fancy" grade, which means the tuna is in large pieces, rather than "chunk," which is in smaller pieces. The olive oil makes a difference, too, easing the transition to a niçoise salad or pasta sauce. Tuna is a great source of omega-3s, but because of mercury concerns, should be eaten in moderation.

Shopping tips: "White" tuna usually means albacore, whereas "light" is a lesser grade of fish.

Substitute: Light tuna in olive oil.

Additional uses:

• Place the tuna on top of greens with wedges of hard-boiled egg, steamed and chilled green beans, olives and tomatoes for niçoise salad. Dress with olive oil and lemon juice.

• Add to tomato-based pasta sauce for extra protein and flavor.