Gordon Brothers Cellars of Pasco celebrates 25th anniversary

There are many ways to measure the growing prestige of Washington wines.

The sheer number of wineries — now in the neighborhood of 550. The furious planting of new vineyards in virtually every corner of the state. The push for new, federally recognized viticultural areas (Snipes Mountain and Lake Chelan are both coming soon). The increasing number of celebrities, from the worlds of professional sports (Drew Bledsoe), movies (Kyle MacLachlan) and music (Queensryche's Geoff Tate), who are involved with Washington wine projects.But for me, the most exciting developments are happening at both ends of the time spectrum. The newest vintages, both 2006 and 2007, are bringing wines of increasing sophistication and subtlety to the market.

Meanwhile, more and more wineries are reaching the age at which beautifully cellared older bottles can be featured in vertical tastings. The ability not merely to last but to gracefully evolve is the hallmark of great wines — and the places that make them. Washington is such a place.

At recent events such as Taste Washington and Vintage Walla Walla, consumers have had the opportunity to taste such gems as a 1983 Cellarmaster's Reserve Riesling (from Columbia); 1997 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot (from L'Ecole No 41); 1998 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (from Leonetti); 1995 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (from Seven Hills) and 1994 Dedication Cabernet Sauvignon (from Woodward Canyon.

Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year is another pioneering Washington winery, Gordon Brothers Cellars of Pasco. The Gordons planted their first vines in 1980, on a spectacular bluff overlooking the Snake River; their first vintage was 1983.

During the past quarter century, the winery has had a succession of winemakers; sold grapes to what Jeff Gordon describes as "some really good customers" (L'Ecole, Woodward Canyon, Leonetti, Dunham and Waterbrook among them); and was itself sold (in 2001) and later repurchased (in 2003).

During some of these rather painful transitions, the wines suffered. But with family ownership restored, a talented new winemaker (Tim Henley, who came from Napa's Pine Ridge), and 100 acres of mature vines now moving quickly toward being farmed organically, Gordon Brothers is poised to make its best wines ever.

Its unique site — the only really nearby vineyard is Charbonneau — yields wines that are distinctly European in character. In fact, Gordon Brothers wines have been offered in first class on British Airways and Lufthansa and sell well on the East Coast, where consumers are more accustomed to Euro flavors.

That European styling, with more herbal nuances, higher acids, lower alcohol levels and less obvious use of new oak, may be one reason that the older Gordon Brothers wines I tasted during a recent visit to the winery showed so well.

A Gordon Brothers 1990 merlot was drinking quite nicely, with mature brick and plum colors; scents of fruit pastry, brown sugar and cherry liqueur; the flavors soft and faded, but pretty and tart. A Gordon Brothers 1988 cabernet sauvignon — 100 percent varietal and just 12.5 percent alcohol — was another treat, elegant and pleasing with light, tart-berry fruit.

Jeff Gordon believes that theirs is the oldest 100 percent estate winery in Washington. These days, he proudly admits, there are no other wineries taking Gordon Brothers grapes; everything is going into the family's own wines.

"The Big Four wines," he says, "are chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah." A second label, called Kamiak, offers affordably priced white and red blends, including this week's pick.

I am very partial to the Gordon Brothers white wines. The 2006 chardonnays, both regular ($13) and reserve ($22), are beautifully ripened and crafted. The first is a fruit-powered jewel; while the reserve is, as expected, bigger, fuller and showing more lush tropical fruit flavors, along with plenty of new oak.

Even better values are the 2006 sauvignon blanc ($13) and the 2006 Kamiak Cellar Select White Wine ($8), a well-crafted blend of two-thirds sauvignon blanc, one-third chardonnay (with a splash of gewürztraminer to lift the aromas). Either bottle would be delightful with lighter summer meals.

As for the reds, the return to family ownership coupled with the arrival of Tim Henley should result in the sort of award-winning wines that were most evident when Marie-Eve Gilla (now at Forgeron) was winemaker.

At the Gordon Brothers Silver Anniversary Sunset Bash, scheduled for June 28, there will be live music, tacos and a chance to taste through some of the latest releases.

Look for the Gordon Brothers 2003 Tradition Red ($40), a Bordeauxlike blend of merlot and cabernet from the estate vineyard's best vines.

Also featured will be the Gordon Brothers 2006 Silver Anniversary Red Wine. Just two barrels were produced, a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah that offers sweet black cherry and plum fruit, spicy pepper and herb, and soft, rich, almost buttery tannins. For event details, call 509-547-6331 or e-mail info@gordonwines.com.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries The Essential Guide." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.