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Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - Page updated at 12:00 AM

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Wine Adviser

Stars put their names on wines; tasting time in Eastern Washington

Special to the Seattle Times

Pick of the Week

O Wines 2006 Horse Heaven Hills Chardonnay; $13.

I discovered this wine at Taste Washington and was delighted to find a quality chardonnay from the Horse Heaven Hills at an affordable price. Better yet, this new label, owned by Stacy Lill and Kathy Johanson, contributes a portion of its profits to fund scholarships for underprivileged young women here in Washington state. Full-flavored, fleshy and dolloped with buttery oak, this classy wine is available at many area grocery stores, wine shops and restaurants.

Celebrity wines are nothing new, but they have heretofore been confined to foreign lands and California. Don't look now, but they're heading our way. An article in the April 8 Vancouver Sun advises that Okanagan's Nihilo Vineyards has made a "Sympathy for the Devil" icewine, with the endorsement of The Rolling Stones.

The geriatric rockers will also have a Rolling Stones red and Rolling Stones white sometime in the future. They join a growing number of movie stars, rock stars and sports stars hanging their names on wines that as often as not are more ego-logic than enologic.

Closer to home, Walla Walla winemaker Eric Dunham and actor pal (and Yakima native) Kyle MacLachlan ("Twin Peaks," "Desperate Housewives," "Sex and the City") have teamed up to produce a red blend with the unlikely name " ... pursued by bear" (the name references an enigmatic stage direction from an obscure Shakespeare play). The well-oaked blend of cabernet, merlot and syrah will be officially released later this year, but may be ordered via mailing list (www.pursuedbybearwine.com). Retail price, says Dunham, is expected to be around $80.

Look for at least one more major celebrity project headquartered in Walla Walla to be announced shortly (I'm sworn to secrecy at the moment). Happily, in both of these examples, the winemaker/partner is one of the best in the state, and the celebrity has local connections and a genuine, hands-on interest in wine.

Such glamour projects will inevitably attract more and more visitors to Washington wine country. So now is a good time to sample new releases in the uncrowded spirit of the good old days. As Carly Simon once sang — these are the good old days.

A taste of spring

Coming up this weekend is Spring Barrel Tasting in the Yakima Valley. Fifty wineries are participating, offering new releases along with food pairings, seminars and special entertainment. Plan carefully in order to minimize driving time. Grab a free copy of the just-updated touring guide from the Washington Wine Commission (available at most wineries and many retailers).

Look for clusters of wineries, and focus on those that are most appealing to you. If you plan to make a full weekend of it, I suggest you drive as far east as you can on the first day, then work your way back toward Seattle, leaving the shortest return drive for Sunday.

Prosser is just less than three hours away from Seattle. Highlights there would include stops at Alexandria Nicole, Chandler Reach, Kestrel, Thurston Wolfe and Willow Crest, along with newcomers Airfield Estates and Olsen Estates.

A second day could be spent exploring the new Rattlesnake Hills AVA (www.rattlesnakehills.com). Fifteen wineries will be open and pouring, some with live bands, special dinners and rare old wines. Reservations are necessary. See for yourself if you can taste something in the wines that sets them apart from other Yakima Valley locations.

On day three, focus on the wineries around Sunnyside, Zillah and Yakima itself. However you plan your visit, be sure to have lodging set in advance and a designated driver. For complete details, suggestions on where to stay and advance registration, visit www.wineyakimavalley.org/.

The following weekend is Walla Walla's turn to roll out the barrels. Spring Release Weekend is when most of the valley's wineries introduce new releases, barrel-taste younger wines and offer visitors the chance to taste and purchase very limited bottlings.

At www.wallawallawine.com, you will find a printable list of participating wineries. Walla Walla includes several widely separated groups of wineries; try to plan your weekend so you can avoid driving long distances between them.

Coming in on Highway 12, you'll be welcomed at Woodward Canyon and L'Ecole No. 41 in Lowden. Continuing on toward town, stop in the new Cougar Crest winery at 50 Frenchtown Road. A couple of miles farther up the road is Long Shadows, open to the public for the weekend. Reininger, Three Rivers and Skylite Cellars are also just off the highway.

A second major group of wineries is farther south, near the Oregon border. A full day could easily be spent touring there. Right in downtown Walla Walla you'll find another day's worth of tasting rooms. Here are some of the most interesting newcomers, such as Ash Hollow, DaMa, Flying Trout, Sleight of Hand and Sweet Valley. It's also the grand opening of the new Nicholas Cole Cellars tasting room at 229 East Main. To celebrate, Mike Neuffer will offer his just-released 2005 Michele, the 2004 Camille (No. 32 on my 2007 Top 100) and, from barrel, the 2006 Dauphiné syrah.

Finally, there is the air-

port, where veterans Buty, Dunham, Five Star, Russell Creek, SYZYGY and Tamarack are joined by newcomers such as Adamant, Ensemble, 428, JLC, Patit Creek (recently moved from Dayton and under new ownership) and Trio.

And if you are heading north to Waitsburg to wash off the tannins with a tasting of Laht Neppur beer (voted best brewer at this year's Ellensburg BrewFest), come up the gorgeous Middle Waitsburg road and visit Couvillion, a tiny but interesting producer surrounded by wheat fields, next to Spring Valley Vineyards (ask to taste the Sagemoor Cabernet).

Remember — accommodations must be booked in advance, and restaurant reservations should also be confirmed early.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries The Essential Guide." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.

Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company

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