A second mixed case of recommended malbecs

Last week, I wrote about Argentine malbecs and struggled to whittle several dozen excellent bottles down to just a single case. This week, I want to follow up with some more of these noteworthy wines. "Malbec," I am assured by virtually every wine distributor I speak to, "is on fire." I'm not kidding — "on fire" are the exact words everyone uses. Given that we have entered a time of transition, extreme competition, elimination, consolidation and price-inflation across the spectrum of the global wine industry, this is a rare slice of good news.

It's especially good for consumers in Seattle, one of the best markets in the country for malbec. Part of the reason? Some excellent malbec is being made right here in Washington. People are beginning to recognize the grape.

Argentine versions almost always say malbec right on the front label. Price is, surprisingly, not always a sure indicator of quality. I have found $8 bottles that are just right for drinking with barbecue, and much more expensive wines that are so jammy and oak-soaked that all varietal character vanishes. With 80 or 100 different labels to choose from, it's not easy to guess which will reward you the most. But the percentage of success is quite high. And you can get wines with the big scores (such as the Catenas mentioned here) without paying the big bucks.

Everyone has a different theory about why it is suddenly Argentina's time in the world of wine. But there is general agreement — and I enthusiastically concur — that the current vintages (2003 through 2007) were all outstanding. In addition, the Argentine economy is still very much tied to the U.S. dollar. For the moment, these wines are not seeing the sort of price hikes that are coming from virtually everywhere else.

If you like supple, sophisticated, detailed, elegant, structured red wines that combine many of the best qualities of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot in a single grape, these are for you. So, here is a second mixed case of my favorites, arranged in order of preference. The name of the local distributor is listed in parentheses.

Catena Alta 2004 Malbec; $50: Great stuff. It expresses the unique, high-altitude terroir beautifully — no faking it with overripe fruit and high toast oak; this is rock, acid and fruit. It's dense, austere and deep; the flavors are subtle, and they linger deliciously. (Click)

Catena 2006 Malbec; $22: Again, the fruit is tight, focused, concentrated raspberry, clean and expressive. It leads into a finish underscored with rock and hints of black olive. (Click)

Goulart 2006 Reserva Malbec; $15: From 91-year-old vines, with brambly, zinfandel flavors of strawberry preserves, blackberry and a light meaty quality. Asian spices around the edges. (Grape Expectations)

Marchiori & Barraud 2004 Malbec; $40: This is for those who want a more extracted, fat, dark, rich style. The alcohol is well over 15 percent, with the jammy black fruits and heat to match. For the style and pedigree, it's a relative value. (Grape Expectations)

Conquista 2006 Malbec; $8: Pick of the Week.

Alamos 2006 Selección Malbec; $15: This has more focus and polish than the regular Alamos; flavors go deeper and show some licorice, black fruits and black olives. (Click)

Carlos Basso 2006 Malbec; $15: Purple and garnet; strong scents of violets and tobacco; firm, textural tannins, with a deeper, smoky quality and a finish that features sweet black cherry and rich earthy compost. (Grape Expectations)

Erales 2005 Malbec; $16: Very spicy and peppery; flavors of a cooler climate site, but it's got a lot of style. Resonates through layers of tart, juicy red fruits, pepper, spice and green tea. (Grape Expectations)

Martino 2003 Old Vine Malbec; $19: Nicely aged, rounded, plummy. The smoke and tar flavors are integrated; the fruit is expressive, and it's got a hint of leather and mushroom. Interesting and complex. (Grape Expectations)

Doña Paula 2006 Estate Malbec; $12: The Estate bottling from Doña Paula is worth the three bucks you have to chuck over the Los Cardos price; this thick, dark and spicy wine has some meat on its bones. Classic malbec flavors of smoke, green tea and tobacco. (Noble)

Alamos 2006 Malbec; $10: Another Catena label, offering surprising depth and flavors of tobacco, black cherry, black olive and black tea. (Click)

Fantelli 2006 Malbec; $8: Spicy and scented with tobacco and clove, this is a fine value. It's light and forward, with an interesting streak of cured meat. Fresh and perfect for a summer barbecue. (Grape Expectations)

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries: The Essential Guide." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.