Fine Washington wines, straight from Oregon

It is perhaps no more than a curious coincidence, but have you noticed that some of the best Washington wines are being made in Oregon?

Winemakers Peter Rosback (Sineann), Andrew Rich (Andrew Rich Wines) and David O'Reilly (Owen Roe) — though by no means the only Oregonians to mine the Washington mother lode — consistently produce thrilling wines from this state's vines.Sineann's Celilo Vineyard Gewürztraminer ($18) is always a standout; the 2006 offers stone fruits, refreshing acids and a streak of licorice. Peter Rosback's red wines include a 2006 Champoux Vineyard Merlot ($36) — — not shy at 15 percent alcohol — that wraps its superripe cherry/berry fruit in rich layers of coffee, toffee and smoke. Better still is his Sineann 2006 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc ($48), which captures the grape's earthy, herbal elements while keeping the fruit tight and muscular.

Best of all is Sineann's 2006 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($48). Chateau Ste. Michelle owns this 35-year-old vineyard, and recently decided to begin offering Cold Creek grapes to a few select winemakers. Rosback has imprinted his definitive, high-impact style on the wine while retaining the best characteristics of the Cold Creek site. Still tight and muscular, this world-class cabernet captures the dense mix of earth, herb, bark, currant, berry and mineral that marks Cold Creek as unique.

Andrew Rich, who labels himself a "Vinarchist," makes his Washington wines at the Winemakers' Studio in Carlton, Ore. Like Rosback, he scours the Columbia Valley for grapes, with a particular interest in Rhone varieties. Among his recent releases, I especially enjoyed the 2006 Roussanne ($20), a creamy, luscious panorama of apricots, tropical fruits and nutmeg.

Rich sources much of his fruit from Red Mountain's Ciel du Cheval vineyard. His Andrew Rich 2005 Ciel du Cheval Grenache ($25) makes most domestic versions seem grapy and simple by comparison. Here are beautifully mixed fruit flavors including plums, currants and berries, finishing with a trail of subtle, chocolaty spice.

Other gems: the Andrew Rich 2005 Mésalliance Red, a powerful blend of merlot, cabernet franc and syrah; the Andrew Rich 2005 Ciel du Cheval Petit Verdot ($40), dark, tannic and muscular; and a pair of outstanding syrahs. The Andrew Rich 2005 Les Vignes En Face Syrah ($45) is a 50/50 blend of Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval barrels, jam-packed with blueberry, blackberry and black cherry fruit, backed with barrel flavors of smoke, tar and licorice.

The other Andrew Rich 2005 Syrah ($24) is a young, juicy, assertive wine that matches its blackberry and black cherry fruit against a strong streak of smoky licorice. Also worth noting is the Andrew Rich 2005 Coup d'Etat Red ($25), a tangy blend with fresh, sharp, briskly acidic flavors of tart raspberries.

Chatting with O'Reilly

Saving the best news for last, I had the great pleasure to sit down recently with David O'Reilly and learn about his new Washington-based winery and vineyard project. For the past decade, O'Reilly has been making collectible (dare I say cult) wines under the Owen Roe label, focusing specifically on premium Yakima Valley vineyards. He also makes some 50,000 cases of value-priced wines under the O'Reilly and Sharecropper labels, the former featuring his engaging Russian wolfhound on the label.

O'Reilly, a native of Northern Ireland who holds a degree in medieval philosophy from Thomas Aquinas College, has purchased the Outlook vineyard and the Apex winery facility in Sunnyside. Apart from his own wines, he plans to custom crush for a variety of projects, including a new lineup of wines bottled in old-fashioned, quart-size milk jugs. "I want to bring people to Sunnyside," says O'Reilly, "and show them how wine is made, and make ourselves a destination. You won't be able to buy these wines at retail, only at the winery, and only in the Pacific Northwest, so we can recycle the bottles."

Naturally modest and even a bit shy, O'Reilly is the sort of gifted winemaker who has the ability to showcase what is best and most distinctive about Yakima Valley fruit. "There's nothing magical going on," he insists. "I take great fruit, and we don't screw anything up. There's nothing done that's unique. We punch down by hand, we don't pump the must, we rack by gravity. Every grape will show the best aspect it has if it's grown in the right place."

Current Owen Roe releases are as good as anything he's ever done. From DuBrul vineyard fruit there is the opulently rich Owen Roe 2006 Riesling ($21), a nectar-like mix of honey, wildflower, peach and apricot. Its companion is the fleshy, barrel-fermented Owen Roe 2006 Chardonnay ($28), graceful and refined, with a hint of caramel in the extended finish.

Owen Roe's DuBrul Vineyard reds include the 2005 Merlot ($45) and 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($60). Yes, these are expensive wines, but in the context of comparable wines from California or France, they more than deliver good value.

The merlot — 100 percent varietal — is sweet and pure, a mélange of cherries, coffee and caramel. The Yakima Valley cabernet matches cassis and cherry fruit with streaks of tobacco and hints of mint, herb and earth.

Among the less expensive Washington reds, look for the 2006 Sharecropper's Cabernet Sauvignon ($18), the 2006 Owen Roe Sinister Hand ($24) and the 2006 Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah ($24).

How to find recommended wines

Unless noted, all Wine Adviser recommendations are currently available, though vintages may sometimes differ. All wine shops and most groceries have a wine specialist on staff. Show them this column, and if they do not have the wine in stock, they can order it for you from the local distributor (noted in parentheses).

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries The Essential Guide." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.