Checking out the great whites in Loire Valley

ANGERS, Val du Loire, France — The Loire Valley of France, though best known for its bookend white wines — Muscadet in the far west, Sancerre in the east — offers a selection as varied and appealing as any region in the world.

From sparkling wines, which are called "Fines Bulles" (fine bubbles), to dry, off-dry and sweet white wines; from bright rosés to delicate pinots to tannic, earthy, cabernet-based reds that can age for decades, the Loire is a treasure trove for wine lovers. Yet it remains largely unknown to Americans.

At this year's Salon des Vins de Loire, which I was pleased to attend, more than 600 exhibitors poured wines from every corner of the region. With so many wines, and so little time (hmmm ... could be a song lyric there), I set out to explore some of the lesser-known appellations whose wines meet the highest standards at refreshingly modest prices.

Which is not to say that I ignored Muscadet and Sancerre, two of my longtime favorites. Muscadet — bone dry, racy and thrilling — is touted as the ideal wine for summer. In truth, it is the quintessential wine for oysters, and since now is prime oyster time, why wait? Look for Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, the best, and don't fret about vintage. Good Muscadet can be enjoyed immediately, yet aged almost indefinitely.

Domaines Landron is an excellent producer previously unknown to me. I tasted multiple vintages of their "Fief du Breil" bottling dating back to 1993, which could easily pass for an older Meursault. Other Muscadets to look for include Clos Saint Vincent des Rongères 2005 Vieilles Vignes ($10) and Domaine Michel David 2006 Clos du Ferré ($11).

Quick visits and tastings at two iconic Sancerre producers turned up unsuspected treasures. At Domaine Henri Bourgeois, the single vineyard 'Le MD' (Monts Damnés) Sancerre was, as expected, immaculate and complex. Happily, the 2006 is in town and available (probably for the last time) at $30. A more basic, but quite fresh and lively, bottle is the Henri Bourgeois 2006 Grande Réserve ($22). Also recommended are the biodynamic Sancerres from Domaine Vacheron; its 2006 sells for $30.

Visiting with Alphonse Mellot, I learned that he had recently acquired vineyard property in the Coteaux Charitois. Look for a pair of wines named 'Les Pénitents' — one a chardonnay, the other a pinot noir. As with Bourgeois, the classic Mellot wines are his Sancerres, especially La Moussière.

If you love Sancerre but not the prices, turn to wines from neighboring Quincy (pronounced CAN-see). Henri Bourgeois makes a delicious 2006 Haute Victoire Quincy ($17). Other excellent wines made of pure sauvignon blanc come from Menetou-Salon, just a bit south and west of Sancerre. It is well-represented by the wines of Domaine Henry Pellé and Domaine de Chatenoy. Vines grow at the same altitude and in the same type of ancient seabed soils as its better-known neighbor, yet the wines sell at a discount.

Though not as racy as Sancerre, these sauvignons have a pleasing sour-candy component, as if a bit of Vouvray had been blended in (it has not). Both 2006 and 2007 produced delicious wines at these properties. Moving farther afield, other sauvignons from the broader Touraine appellation can also be quite good. Domaine Chainier makes several, including one from Château de Pocé that is adjacent to Mick Jagger's Loire estate. Satisfaction guaranteed.

Vouvray deserves a column — a book, really — all by itself. Nowhere else in the world does the chenin blanc grape produce such a delicious range of wines, from sparkling to dry to decadently sweet. But if you want the thrill of what I believe to be the world's greatest dry chenin blanc — a wine that will amaze you with its grace, elegance and longevity — you must look to Savennières.

Domaine du Closel's Clos du Papillon bottling offers somewhat musky, lightly honeyed scents and flavors of candied fruits. Better still are its Les Caillardières bottlings, bringing in nuances of white flowers, tea, lemon oil and citrus rind.

A star on the rise is Damien Laureau, whose two cuvées offer that magic combination of textbook winemaking and extreme value. I will be looking to purchase both the 2005 Les Genets and the 2005 Bel Ouvrage for my own cellar. The first, grown on sandy soil, offers a lovely mix of honey, clover, spice, herb and juicy citrus. The second, grown on rocky soil, is more tightly focused, with scents of beeswax, lemon peel, tea and honey. This is the one to age.

Savennières from Roches aux Moines come in multiple vintages dating back a decade or more and sell for quite reasonable prices. Have your wine-seller contact the importer (Millésime) for complete details.

No brief wine column can do more than point you in certain directions when the topic is as vast and as varied as the Loire. But by focusing on a few key appellations and producers, you can make your own discoveries. Last, but certainly not least, know that some importers, particularly Joe Dressner and Jon-David Headrick, are extremely well-versed in the region. Either of their names on the back label is a sure sign of quality.

Next week: Loire reds.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries The Essential Guide." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.