Oregon wineries that are doing pinot right

There is a sort of unspoken code among many in the wine press not to be too critical of specific wines or wineries.

The logic is that it's better to point out the successes and let the failures slide. In general, I try to stay on the sunny side of the wine-reviewing street myself. But there are times when I believe that a reasonably informed, reasonably objective critique is called for.

How else can a young industry learn and grow? Too many winemakers drink their own wines or their neighbors' wines and have no grasp of the global wine market in which they compete. It's great when the visitor to your tasting room says nice things about your riesling or chardonnay, but if that is your only feedback, it probably isn't telling you much of value.

I have called out Oregon producers for overpricing their pinot noirs, for making too many single-vineyard wines that taste like components rather than complete blends and for confusing consumers with a parade of new appellations that seem to have put the dirt cart before the flavor horse.

In fairness, I should point out some Oregon wines and wineries that are really doing a great job with their pinot noirs. Pricing on these wines remains generally high, but the same can be said for pinots from California and certainly from France. It's when an Oregon wine is priced at $75, $85 or even $150 a bottle that I give it what Mrs. G. refers to as "the pirate eye." Aaahrrrrr. It had better be mighty good, matey, at that price.

Many Oregon wineries are small and case production is limited, so I am listing Web site information so you may inquire about availability and order directly from the winery if you so desire. Pinot noir is the quintessential autumn red wine. Here is a recommended mixed case from Oregon, with winery retail prices. They are ranked in order by (potential) score and price.

Chehalem 2005 Corral Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir ($44)

www.chehalemwines.com

Chehalem's estate vineyard is one of the best in Yamhill County. This fragrant and complex offering brings pleasure to both nose and palate. The scents of leaf and spice and herb are quintessentially Oregon, and the textural core flavors of wild berry, rhubarb, melon and mixed tropical fruits create an elegant and fascinating wine.

Carabella 2005 Pinot Noir ($39)

www.carabellawine.com

Carabella makes an elegant, lighter style of pinot, one that offers pale fruit flavors of cranberry and strawberry but keeps adding in subtle nuances. It actually seems to gain in weight and strength as it moves into layers of plum and sour cherry. The toasty tannins add still more depth to the elegant finish.

Ponzi 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir ($60)

www.ponziwines.com

Ponzi's reserve is no longer pushing the envelope pricewise in Oregon, so relative to its peers it is a genuinely fair value. The 2005 has well-defined muscle and firm, slightly chewy flavors of red berry, cranberry and spicy red apple. The finish rests on tannins that are ripe and resonant.

Gypsy Dancer 2005 A&G Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir ($60)

www.gypsydancerestates.com

This wine needs breathing time to open up and reveal its concentrated core of cherry fruit, mixed berries, toast and spice. It shows the complexity of the best Oregon pinots, with a light earthy streak under hints of root and soil. Flavors gain strength through the finish, suggesting that this is a wine to cellar for some years.

Torii Mor 2005 Olson Vineyard Pinot Noir ($65)

www.toriimorwinery.com

The vines in this vineyard were planted in 1972, making it one of the oldest pinot vineyards on the West Coast. These old vines display a certain grace and sensuous elegance that young vines can't muster. Mixed fruits, hints of mushroom and dried leaves create beguiling aromas. It's a silky, nicely defined wine that should age along Burgundian lines.

Sineann 2006 Pinot Noir ($36)

www.sineann.com

Sineann's Oregon bottling is soft, deliciously sweet and nicely spiced up with streaks of pipe tobacco, herb and mint. It's made in a ready-to-drink style, fruit forward if you will, and finishes with a blast of chocolate.

Le Cadeau 2005 Diversité Pinot Noir ($45)

www.lecadeauvineyard.com

It's no secret that I like my pinots pretty, not rugged, and this fits the style, with lifted cherry fruit over juicy, racy, citrusy acids. Balanced and clean, with subtle hints of herb.

Chateau Bianca 2005 "Cellar Select" Pinot Noir ($20)

www.chateaubianca.com

When you get down to around $20, there are not a lot of pinots this round and spicy. Juicy strawberry, cherry and apple pie fruit flavors are wrapped with cinnamon. It's lively and slightly sweet, and quite appealing.

Eola Hills 2005 La Creole Reserve Pinot Noir ($24)

www.eolahillswinery.com

Across the entire lineup, Eola Hills wines deliver a lot of flavor for the moderate price. Silky and seductive, with accents of cinnamon and clove, this La Creole Reserve has none of the rough herbaceousness of most inexpensive Oregon pinots.

Left Coast Cellars 2004 Cali's Cuvée Pinot Noir ($24)

www.leftcoastcellars.com

Left Coast Cellars is located in the Eola Hills. As is typical of the region, Left Coast puts out a rather earthy, herbal, peppery style of pinot noir. Don't look for sweet or candied flavors here, but you'll find plenty of texture and minerality.

Coelho 2005 Paciência Pinot Noir ($25):

www.coelhowinery.com

Assertive and spicy, this moderately ripe pinot uses Amity vineyard estate grapes. It's herbal, intense and aromatic, with an unusual fragrance of pine and herb. Tart and sassy, it offers typical cool-climate flavors of cola and root beer, along with a fairly stiff and tannic finish.

WillaKenzie 2005 Pinot Noir ($23):

www.willakenzie.com

WillaKenzie makes at least a half-dozen pinots, but this entry-level bottling is a fine introduction to the house style. Bright fruit flavors show a mix of berries, cherries and a hint of Concord grape. This has some of the velvety texture of estate's more expensive wines, with subtle hints of earth, soy and leather.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries:

The Essential Guide." His column appears weekly in the Wine section.

He can be reached by e-mail

at wine@seattletimes.com.