Old-world grains, modern appeal

Whole grains, which can be incorporated into other favorite recipes and new preparations, are all the rage now, thanks to their healthful benefits and high fiber content. My recipes this month introduce you to some less-familiar grains, from toothsome wheat berries to cracked wheat and heirloom spelt and farro.

Wheat has been cultivated for millennia, and there are several types of this valuable cereal. Emmer wheat (Triticum dicoccon), once widely cultivated, is now grown mainly in Italy, where it is known as farro, and in Morocco, Spain and other parts of southern Europe and the Near East. Spelt (T. spelta), which some sources erroneously equate with farro, is another ancient wheat; it was widespread in Central Europe. Bulgur, extensively used in Eastern Mediterranean dishes, is usually made from the hard durum wheat also used for pasta. The wheat is par-steamed, then dried and crushed. Cracked wheat is similar but has not been precooked. Traditionally, both bulgur and cracked wheat had the bran removed; however, whole-grain versions of both are available, so read labels carefully.

Bulgur is featured in easy-to-make tabbouleh salad, a staple at most deli departments. When I asked my co-worker Trixie Rombouts when she first had it, she exclaimed, "In the '60s!" Now that was a bit ahead of the times in Seattle.

Both of Trixie's parents were European, so she was sent off to school with freshly made tabbouleh salad adorned with fresh mint from their yard and a hunk of kasseri cheese. Nowadays, that would be the ultimate sustainable, organic Northwest lunch, but those days there weren't many takers at lunchtime trading — no Twinkies for tabbouleh then.

When we tested my recipe for Turkish Tabbouleh Salad with Dried Apricots & Pistachios, of course I had to have Trixie be my taster. It passed with an exclamation of, "Wow, this is fantastic!"

As organic farming has flourished, spelt has became more popular. Today it is seen in breads, cookies, crackers and pasta. Some folks who are sensitive to wheat are able to tolerate spelt. My friend who is very allergic to wheat makes a mean spelt pizza crust, which is delicious.

Spelt can be switched out for the wheat berries in my recipe for Colorful Wheat Berry, Edamame and Shiitake Mushroom Salad, which is vibrant with sweet red peppers, carrots and green onions. And with the addition of shiitake mushrooms, plus protein-rich edamame beans, this salad is a nutritional powerhouse. This super-good-for-you salad is great to take for lunch or as an accompaniment to grilled fish.

Farro is an ancient hulled wheat and was served as the daily ration of the Roman legions. Today it is making a comeback in specialty and gourmet shops. In Tuscany and Umbria, farro is used for special regional dishes, which is where I originally tasted it. I immediately loved its toothsome bite. Most instructions say to soak it before cooking — this is great to speed up the cooking — but I typically just give it a long, slow boil until it is tender. I love it added into traditional risotto as well as soups. But my favorite way is Farro with Hearty Greens, Wild Mushrooms & Goat Cheese. I love the contrasting flavors and textures of this dish.

At the farmers market in Twisp, a friend of mine discovered locally grown farro from Bluebird Grain Farms, located in the Upper Methow Valley, where they irrigate with pure mountain water from the Pasayten Wilderness. Their certified organic grains are also available at their online store, www.bluebirdgrainfarms.com. If time is tighter and you just want to keep something nutritious in your pantry, there is ready-to-eat farro that comes jarred from Italy and is imported by Ritrovo. You can find it at Metropolitan Markets.

Kathy Casey is a food, beverage and restaurant concept consultant and food writer. She owns Kathy Casey Food Studios. Her "Dishing" column appears the first Wednesday of the month in the Seattle Times Food Section.