He's the new chef behind the plate at Safeco

Think Seattle baseball food and think hot dogs, Ichirolls, clam chowder and garlic fries.

Tamas Ronyai hopes to make visions of lemon crème brûlée and rack of lamb with lavender dance in your head as well.

Ronyai is Safeco Field's new executive chef, in charge of menus and operations for five kitchens at the Mariner ballpark that create most all the food you can't buy at a concession stand.

His concoctions — dishes like Four Spice Roasted Halibut with Lemongrass and Ginger Stir Fried Buckwheat Noodles, Kobe Beef Burgers with Caramelized Onions and Fontina cheese and Opera Cake with Almond Sponge, Chocolate Ganache and Coffee Butter Cream — go to the 2,000 or so fans per game perched in restaurants like the Hit it Here Cafe and in seating sections where tickets can run into the triple digits, like the Diamond Club behind home plate and private suites.

With a career that spans several continents, fancy hotels and the Vancouver (B.C.) Convention & Exhibition Centre, Ronyai joined the ranks of stadium chefs after a colleague suggested he apply. He's a five-tool player himself: chef, sommelier, chocolatier, caterer and menu designer. He commutes from Bainbridge Island, where he's become the go-to guy when his son and daughter need good seats. We caught up with him recently in one of his Safeco Field kitchens.

Q: How does a French-trained, Hungarian chef find himself working at an American ballpark?

A: I like challenges. (His biggest challenge so far: Producing quality food from the get-go with a seasonal staff and little time before baseball season began to source the best local farmers and producers to supply the kitchen.) When you get a job it takes one or two years to build up your team before you get to show your knowledge of food. The president of the United States can't do the job in one year, he needs four.

Q: What do you think of baseball?

A: I never understood: Why bats? I understand tennis rackets. But bats? I didn't have too much respect for sports until this year — I read books. I read "Baseball for Dummies."

Q: What was the most surprising thing you learned?

A: How pitchers hold the ball differently. I wondered, why do they call them fastballs? Every ball should be fast, no?

Q: What are some of your culinary goals?

A: I really focus on using local ingredients. It's a lot of work, but I would like to do my sauces and soups now and vacuum pack them for next year. I think the ballpark needs a little more health-oriented food. But I respect hot dogs. I respect traditions.

Q: What is your specialty?

A: I think I put my name on the map with my desserts. I always believe dessert is very, very important because after you leave the restaurant, that's what you remember.

Q: What's your comfort food?

A: A nice French cheese, a good bottle of wine and a nice crusty bread. I like fatty food. I'm not a person who cuts the fat part off the prosciutto.

Karen Gaudette: 206-515-5618 or kgaudette@seattletimes.com