Traditional tea, brewed fresh

There was a time, before bottled and flavored teas flooded the markets, that iced tea was brewed at home. It was made with tea bags, usually Lipton, and tap water, and it was sweetened with granulated sugar that floated to the bottom of the pitcher.

The tea was poured into frosty glasses filled with ice, and it tasted of real natural flavors, such as fresh lemon or orange.

No bottled brew with "natural flavors" quite relieves a parched throat like authentic iced tea does. So, with a nod to the past, here's how to brew your own.

It all begins with the tea, and water

Not every tea is at its best when served over ice. White teas, for instance, may be too light for some palates. But black teas such as orange pekoe and Darjeeling are full bodied and will stand up to dilution. England's classic Darjeeling from Twinings is a good choice.

Oolong tea is semi-fermented, ranging in color from black to green. It's considered an artisanal tea made by small farms, the best coming out of China and Taiwan. Elisabeth Knotting, owner of Teacup located at the north end of Queen Anne Avenue, recommends Tie Kuan Yin from the Fujian Province, which is lightly roasted over a charcoal fire. Bai Hao, another Chinese oolong with a darker, spicier flavor, would also be good choice. Goddess Oolong, with hints of cinnamon, is a shop favorite that would be wonderful over ice. Or try the Formosa Silvertip from Taiwan, which has a rich, fruity flavor without the bitterness of some other teas.

Green tea doesn't go through a fermentation process and has a lighter color and more delicate flavor. It can stand alone or mix with spiced or herbal teas such as Tazo Wild Sweet Orange for variation. Jasmine Green from Numi and Tazo Zen are personal favorites in this category.

The water used for both brewing the tea and for making the ice cubes to cool your drink should taste fresh and pure. If aging pipes cause your tap water to taste metallic, it's best to use either bottled or filtered water. The difference in taste is surprising.

Brewing

Teas brewed for icing should be stronger because they'll be diluted by the ice. The amount used is a matter of personal preference and will also vary with the method of brewing.

Hot brew, the Southern way: Place 6 tea bags and 1/8 teaspoon baking soda in a 4-cup glass measuring cup. (The soda will neutralize the tannins in the tea.) Add 2 cups boiling water, cover and let steep 10 minutes. Remove tea bags but don't squeeze them, which would release bitterness. Pour concentrate into a 2-quart pitcher and add 6 cups cold water. Sweeten if desired. Cool completely, then chill and serve over ice.

To make cold-brewed tea, fill a 1-gallon container with cold water. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons tea leaves, either loose or spooned into a tea ball, stir to combine and cover tightly. Let sit overnight in the refrigerator. If the tea leaves were loose, strain through a fine mesh strainer into a clean container and add about ½ cup superfine sugar (if using), stirring until dissolved. Chill and serve over ice. Both green and herbal teas can be used with this method, although another tablespoon of tea can be added to give it more flavor.

Sweeteners

Granulated sugar takes a lot of stirring to dissolve in the iced tea, so it's best to add some sugar to the tea when hot. When cooled and iced, more sweetener can be added to taste.

Superfine sugar can be stirred into cold tea and will dissolve easily.

Or make a simple syrup to have on hand by combining 2 cups water and 1 cup granulated sugar in a saucepan. Stir over medium-low heat until the sugar dissolves, then turn up the heat and boil gently about 5 to 8 minutes or until syrupy. Cool and refrigerate in a jar, tightly covered.

The hot syrup can be infused with flavorings once it's thickened and has been removed from the heat. Here are a couple of ideas: add 2 star anise and a cinnamon stick; 1 tablespoon each chopped lemongrass and fresh ginger; or 6 whole cloves, a cinnamon stick, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns and a strip of orange zest. Cover and set aside 15 minutes. Then remove the flavorings, cool and refrigerate.

A natural sweetener worth exploring is agave nectar, which has a light, honeylike consistency and is four times sweeter than sugar. And it has the added bonus of dissolving more easily than honey. Stir the nectar into iced tea to taste. Look for it at Whole Foods or PCC.

If the tea becomes cloudy, it may be due to high levels of tannin in a particular variety or because the brewed tea was too warm when refrigerated. Although not a guaranteed fix, try adding some boiling water to the cloudy tea and again cool completely before refrigerating.

A sprig of mint and slice of lemon are classic garnishes for iced tea, or try a thin, peeled reed of lemongrass. Small pieces of lemon, lime or orange, or a single raspberry or blueberry can be placed in an ice cube tray before filling.

Recipes from "Iced Tea: 50 Recipes for Refreshing Tisanes, Infusions, Coolers and Spiked Teas" by Fred Thompson

CeCe Sullivan: csullivan@seattletimes.com