Concierge service — at the grocery store

What better way to show her husband she cares, Vanessa Love thought, than with a fantastic meal.

Fancy pasta dishes, desserts, a scented candle, chocolate-covered strawberries and rose petals already held court in her shopping basket. But she paused when she reached the abundant self-serve "salad garden" at West Seattle's Metropolitan Market.

Radicchio or mizuna? Baby greens or romaine?

Time for Ilga Westberg to come to the rescue.

Grocery stores continually strive to stand out in a competitive industry. Some offer rock-bottom prices. Others aim for an unrivaled selection of organic produce, takeout meals or kosher meats.

Among its many charms Metropolitan Market's six locations offer what the Seattle chain calls Red Coat Service. Think of those times in the store when you longed for Mom, Uncle Harry or Grandma's advice on Thanksgiving stuffing, how to season flank steak or a great treat to tote to that office potluck.

For nine years now, Westberg and a team of colleagues have aimed to provide a mix of all three, with a chef's level of expertise.

Stumped on what should accompany your Easter ham (or Tofurky)? Fretting over how you'll pull off your first New Year's brunch for 25? Curious what to cook to woo your woman?

Ask Ilga.

"You have all this great information and you want to share it," Westberg said, holding a tray of tantalizing chocolate truffles. "Customers come up and give other people ideas."

On Valentine's Day, the most recent Red Coat occasion, she sidles up to Love and asks if she wants help. Westberg points out greens of various textures, tossing them in a big bowl — in goes spring green mix, romaine for crunch, radicchio for color, cranberries for tartness. She advises Love to dress it with balsamic vinaigrette.

"I would love to come back just because she was so cheery," Love said as she headed toward the checkout line with her basket of romance.

Westberg downplays her own role in this undertaking.

"She did it. She just needed a little help," Westberg says. Then, in a flash, she was elsewhere in the produce department, helping another customer assemble a respectable dinner.

Westberg, the chain's marketing director, said the brainchild came one Thanksgiving. The store's cooking classes already were popular, but she felt it'd be handy for customers to have someone to consult with last-minute questions.

Something in her head reminded her of Paul Revere warning fellow patriots: The Red Coats are coming!

"That's it. I'm buying red coats," she decided. And a concierge service was born.

Most local markets say they'll gladly help customers plan meals or locate ingredients if asked. But Metropolitan appears to stand alone in offering a regular, set service.

The Red Coats turn out before most holidays with a focus on food, including Christmas, Valentine's Day and Easter. At Thanksgiving they take appointments for menu consultations to handle demand.

"One of the best things about West Seattle is this market. It's a nice place to be," said Steve Schellong, peering at sweetheart steaks Westberg pointed out in the butcher's case as a suggestion for his family's dinner.

"It's the Nordstrom of grocery stores," said Phil Cammarano of West Seattle, who was pulling together a last-minute romantic meal.

A side effect of Westberg's prominence is friendships. Shoppers run up to give her hugs. She somehow remembers peoples' names, to their delight. She has seen children grow from toddlers to young adults and helped them learn how to eat along the way.

"She is the best because she has ignited in the children an appreciation of food," said Sherri Estep of West Seattle, who has shopped the store for years with her son and daughter.

"I like food and people," Westberg says. "I like that connection."

Karen Gaudette: 206-515-5618

or kgaudette@seattletimes.com