Mmmmm . . .maple syrup

Yum, maple! Doesn't it just conjure warm and fuzzy food memories — especially about breakfast?

Fuzzy-slipper-clad moms griddling up tall stacks of pancakes drizzled with warm syrup. Hot, crispy strips of maple-cured bacon or trays of thickly frosted, freshly made maple bars at neighborhood bakeries.

Only a few places in the world have the right climate to grow sugar maples, the trees that give us this distinctive taste. In the United States, Vermont is the best known for maple syrup production, but Quebec, Canada, provides most of the world's supply. Other producing regions include upstate New York, Michigan, Ontario and the Canadian Maritime Provinces. The flavor of the syrup can vary from region to region and also by year or "vintage."

Typically, maple trees are not tapped until they are at least 40 years old and about 1 foot in diameter. As the trees increase in girth, more taps can be added. A tree can have up to four taps, each of which produces about 10 gallons of sap per season. After boiling down, that yields about a quart of maple syrup. Maple syrup is boiled even further to produce maple cream, sugar and candy. So if you think real maple syrup can be a little spendy, well, a lot of work goes into this tasty product.

Maple's unique flavor is wonderful in all kinds of recipes, and different grades of syrup are preferred for different uses.

Maple syrup is graded by color and strength of taste. In general, U.S. grades are Grade A (Light Amber or Fancy, Medium Amber and Dark Amber) and Grade B, a darker syrup. Vermont's syrups are a little thicker than the U.S. standard and are graded on their own system; the lightest grade is called "Vermont Fancy." Canadian grades are #1 (Extra Light, Light and Medium), #2 (Amber) and #3 (Dark).

The very delicate, palest grades are best as a table condiment or used with foods where the syrup's subtlety can be appreciated, such as drizzled over a light plain custard.

The darker syrups are more flavorful and come through well in cooking and baking. I used a Grade B syrup for this month's recipes.

On the more savory side of things, maple syrup is outstanding in a marinade for pork; added to a pot of baked beans; or in dressings, such as my recipe for Maple Vinaigrette, which is great tossed with your favorite greens, pears or apples and some toasted pecans. I also like it drizzled over grilled chicken breasts.

And, of course, maple is fantastic in sweets and baked goods. I whipped up a recipe for Maple Panna Cotta, a no-bake custard-style dessert. It's simple and delectable — and especially pretty when topped with a pouf of whipped cream and garnished with a maple candy leaf.

My other maple recipe is for a dense Maple Apple Bundt Cake with a flavorful Jack Daniel's Glaze that just sets the whole thing off. This cake is chock-full of grated apple and chopped pecans; it makes a welcome afternoon sweet treat, a delicious dessert when served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of maple-sweetened whipped cream — and I even like it for brunch.

So make a resolution to get beyond your pancake habit, and try this sweet syrup "in" instead of "on" something different this year.

Chef Kathy Casey is a food, beverage and restaurant concept consultant and food writer. She owns Kathy Casey Food Studios. Her "Dishing" column appears the first Wednesday of the month in the Seattle Times Food section.