Fall brings wealth of new wines

The leaves are falling, and almost as profuse are the numbers of new releases flooding the wine market.

It's a fall tradition that magically ties together harvest, crush, the end of summer, the anticipation of the holidays, the crisp, sunny days and the clear, cool nights and leads us to changing menus and richer wines. Here are some of the highlights I've discovered while making the rounds of trade tastings over the past few weeks.

Many of these wines, especially those from small Washington producers, are made in very limited quantities. We are fortunate to live in a great wine-growing region and to have access to wines that are denied to virtually everyone else. Washington wines are world class. Count your blessings and grab some of these gems, all a cut above their peers in their respective price ranges.

Also on today's list are some excellent bottles from around the world, all tailored to autumn foods and pleasures.

White wines

(in order of preference)

Andrew Will 2005 Cuvée Lucia Chardonnay "Celilo Vineyard"; $22 . This is good juice, sappy and clean, with flavors of crisp red apple leading into light tropical fruit — citrus and pineapple — lush and acid-driven, with an underpinning of mineral and stone.

Andrew Rich 2004 Roussanne; $20. Roussanne, a white Rhone grape that is still rare in Washington, gives you creamy, rich flavors without becoming syrupy or overripe. Fresh, leesy, palate-cleaning acids keep it lively and lifted through the finish.

McCrea Cellars 2005 Viognier "Ciel du Cheval Vineyard"; $25. This Viognier packs a lot of fruit power into its mid-palate, but the flavor details are what elevate it — spice, rind, pear skin and even a whiff of fresh-cut tobacco. The fruit suggests white peach and citrus and the finish never becomes hot or clumsy.

2005 Arbor Crest Sauvignon Blanc; $8. A rich, affordable and full-bodied sauvignon blanc, made in a soft, open, fruity and fairly sweet style. It delivers a lot of body and sweet fruit flavor, with none of the vegetal or grassy flavors found in high acid versions of this grape.

Red wines

(in order of preference)

Fielding Hills 2004 RiverBend Red; $28. How to pick one, when all of the new Fielding Hills releases are so beautifully crafted? Try this red blend; it has great color, plush aromas and mouthfeel and sets up in the mouth with intense, varied flavors including blackberry, black cherry, black licorice. The young berry fruit scents are sensational, wrapped tight and the oak is gently applied and lends a pleasing milk-chocolate smoothness to the finish. Acrobatic balance and gorgeous fruit.

L'Ecole No. 41 2004 Syrah; $25. This is more fruit-driven, whereas the Seven Hills bottling is meatier, more Northern Rhone. Features a vivid, ebullient, young and grapey nose; while the young, zippy fruit is tight, tart and spicy. There is a good lift to the palate, with firm acids and a layer of citrus rind adding body to the finish.

2003 Arbor Crest Merlot; $15. This rich, ripe wine, sourced from top vineyards such as Klipsun, Stillwater Creek and Conner Lee, really knocks your socks off. The substantial blackberry and black-cherry fruit carries unusual weight, and the tannins and barrel time give the wine layers of toast and smoke.

Clos du Caillou 2004 Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes Cuvée Unique Red Wine; $20. North Berkeley Imports is the exclusive importer of this perennial favorite Rhone blend, a spicy, juicy red wine that really returns to form with the excellent 2004 vintage. If you like the bright berry flavors of Washington syrah but want a bit more acid, precision and an hint of French herb, this is the wine to grab.

Felsina 2003 Lucilla; $14. This Tuscan blend sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon, from a warm, ripe vintage, shows you why I like Tuscan wines so much. It's soft and round, light and nuanced, with a mix of tart fruit, leather and fresh-cut tobacco scents and flavors. Smooth, spicy and with enough acid to cut through rich foods.

Columbia Crest "Two Vines" 2002 Merlot-Cabernet; $8. Scents of bramble, cherry, tobacco, ash, bark and smoke set up this party wine, which is smooth and delicious, with generous cherry, blueberry and raspberry fruit, ripe tannins and perfectly balanced acids. Put this into a blind tasting with some $30 Bordeaux blends from elsewhere, and you are sure to amaze your friends.

Snoqualmie 2004 Rosebud Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon; $15. This 100 percent varietal cabernet sauvignon is nicely defined, a mix of spicy berry and citrus. Flavors are set up on firm acids and the alcohol is a sensible 13.2 percent; no insane levels of sugar or extraction here. The finish is as smooth as coffee gelato, with shavings of bitter chocolate set on top.

Chateau Lestrille Capmartin 2003 Bordeaux Superieur; $18. A ripe year in Bordeaux, 2003 brings more New World flavors to the less expensive wines and this is a great example. With good color and concentration, it retains the sleek style and character of true Bordeaux but eliminates the unripe, mushroomy funk of lesser vintages. I like the gravelly finish and dark streaks of ash.

How To Find recommended Wines

Unless noted, all Wine Adviser recommendations are currently available, though vintages may sometimes differ. All wine shops and most groceries have a wine specialist on staff. Show them this column, and if they do not have the wine in stock, they can order it for you from the local distributor.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.