In defense of sauvignon blanc

A wine writer, unknown to me, but who obviously was having a bad palate day, was pontificating on a well-known Web site named for a type of brittle rock. He had the audacity to attack one of my favorite wines — sauvignon blanc. And not just any one particular sauvignon blanc; he hates all sauvignon blanc!

The grape was dismissed in curt one sentence as "a dud ... wholly devoid of complexity and depth." There was more, far more, all of it grumpy and perverse, and virtually all of it wrong.

How can such an expressive, versatile grape provoke such passionate disdain? Sauvignon blanc, whether it is done in the tart, mineral style of Sancerre; the crisp, stone and citrus style of Friuli; the lime-laden style of New Zealand or the creamy, barrel-fermented style of California and much of Washington, is one of the world's most interesting, fragrant, flexible white wine grapes. Far more than commonplace chardonnay or pinot grigio — its more popular white wine peers — everyday sauvignon blanc can express the particular flavors of a place, summed up by that unique French term "terroir."

How do you readers feel about the stuff? Maybe you tried a bottle or two and it didn't bang your gong. OK, that's fine, but please don't give up on the grape. If you like any white wines at all, I am quite confident that there is a sauvignon blanc out there somewhere that can win your heart.

What I particularly love about good sauvignon blanc is the snap of the acids, the way they are married to assertive varietal flavors of cut grass, lime, grapefruit, citrus peel and rock. These are flavors that penetrate the palate, liven up the tongue and twist sensuously around certain types of food, especially goat cheeses, grilled veggies, shellfish and other light seafood and poultry.

But great wines must be able to age, the hapless critic continued his rant, and sauvignon blanc cannot. To which I reply, wrong again! The myth that sauvignon blancs don't age well is simply that, a myth. As with any and all wines, New World versions tend to be fruitier, riper and more immediately drinkable than European wines. But I've had many bottles of Sancerre that were 10 or even 15 years of age and drinking beautifully. In fact, I don't think I can say with any assurance that they wouldn't have lasted another 10 or 15 years; they were that good.

Sauvignon blancs from California and Washington generally offer immediate enjoyment; you don't buy these wines to see how they will taste in 2020. That said, I just tasted a 2001 Deux Femme from Bodega Turner, a sauvignon blanc with some semillon in the blend, and found it drinking very well with nicely integrated oak, spice and soft, ripe, rich fruit.

Stylistically, New World sauv blancs fall into two basic styles: those that are barrel-fermented (and sometimes aged) in new oak, and those that are stainless-steel fermented and aged. When handled discreetly, the influence of new oak on sauvignon blanc can be light, lovely and seductive, lending aromas and flavors of cinnamon, toasted coconut, vanilla cream, butterscotch and so forth. If overdone it can also obliterate any trace of fruit, or simply turn what is a naturally distinctive grape into a chardonnay wannabe.

Stainless steel fermentation is more difficult to do well, but delivers more pure varietal flavors. And when the grapes are grown on interesting soil, the nuances of mineral, gunpowder and steel are amplified as well. Here are some that offer especially good value.

Recommended

sauvignon blancs

Bogle Vineyards 2005 Sauvignon Blanc; $9. Bogle is one of California's most consistent producers of flavorful, affordable wines. This is a vinous gin & tonic, showing zippy lime and pineapple fruit with plenty of verve. (Noble)

Rodney Strong 2005 "Charlotte's Home" Sauvignon Blanc; $10. I like the spice, the "cut" of the flavors, the fragrance of citrus and the firm core of melon, pink grapefruit and Meyer lemon. (Odom)

Lockwood 2005 Sauvignon Blanc; $10. Clean, crisp and screwcapped, this is an easy-going picnic wine with the kind of fresh, bracing fruit flavors that seem well-matched to salt air. Give it a good chill.

Simi 2005 Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc; $12. All stainless-steel fermented, with a splash of semillon to flesh it out, this lighter, slightly spritzy wine comes on like a pinot grigio, fresh and snappy. (Young's-Columbia)

Dynamite Vineyards 2005 Sauvignon Blanc; $12. Ignore the cheesy label, what's inside the bottle is what counts. Crisp, lemony and displaying a refreshing minerality, this Lake County wine shows you why that is the most exciting emerging wine region in northern California. (Alaska)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Sauvignon Blanc; $15. I'm not sure why the Chateau is just now getting out the '04s, but this widely-available (28,000 cases) Columbia valley bottling sets a good standard for the state. Nice and creamy, with green apple, pear, fig and a hint of toast.

Calistoga Cellars 2005 Sauvignon Blanc; $16 . A Napatonian style, softer, with stone fruits and candied tropical flavors. (Elliott Bay)

Voss 2005 Sauvignon Blanc; $19. I love the floral note that sails high above the clean, light tropical fruit. Hints of lemon candy and pink grapefruit put this squarely in the nongrassy camp. (Vehrs)

St. Supery 2005 "Dollarhide" Sauvignon Blanc; $35. You'll pay a stiff tab for this limited, reserve bottling, but if you want the real deal, as in cat's pee, gooseberry, nettles — all the words that wine writers use to signify aggressive, pungent herbaceous flavors — this is the one. (Alaska)

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.