Alcohol content's fudge factor

I recently discussed how to determine alcoholic content on a bottle of wine. Alert reader Sherrill Miller, who owns E.B. Foote Winery in Seattle, attended a recent seminar on wine labeling given by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) that oversees such things. Here is what Miller learned.

"TTB requires that alcohol percent by volume be on the front label. The size of the type is required to be at least 1 mm but no larger than 3 mm. [Yes, that's millimeters.] Wines under 14 percent alcohol are allowed plus or minus 1.5 percent on the alcohol listed on the label. So a wine labeled 12.5 percent could be anywhere from 11 percent to 14 percent.

"Wine over 14 percent alcohol is allowed plus or minus 1 percent. Often winemakers will put 12.5 percent on all of their labels out of convenience, knowing the actual percentage is within the allowed range. Unfortunately for consumers, the alcohol content on the bottle may not be of much help. If the alcohol is listed as 12 percent, it's probably in the plus or minus 1.5 percent range. If it's labeled as 12.9 percent it's probably accurate."

Let me just add that I recently held a bottle of Washington wine in my hand that clearly had the alcohol content listed on the back label, as do many, many wines, regardless of the regulations.

The winemaker, who was with me, simply said "how do you know which is the front label, and which is the back? If I call it the front, it's the front." So as far as I can tell, it's a moot point.

As for the wobbly 1 or 1.5 percent range permitted when listing alcohol content; it is true that there is a sizable fudge factor allowed, BUT — and it's a big but — taxes go up at 14 percent so it must be accurate as far as that is concerned.

Given the high levels of ripeness that grapes are achieving these days, domestic wines below 14 percent are becoming rare. I find that many, if not most, wineries are listing percentages to at least one decimal point, which speaks to Miller's point about accuracy.

Paul Gregutt answers questions weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.