Just when you thought I was done — more rosés!

Wine-writer nightmare No. 631: Readers pick up the Wednesday paper, turn to the Wine Adviser page and see the dreaded word "rosé" in the headline.

"He's at it again!" they cry in dismay. "Enough with the pink wine! Didn't he just do the pink wine thing two weeks ago?" You slam down the paper in disgust (not easy to slam a paper, but hey, it's my dream). I wake up in a cold sweat, relief pouring over me like a, like a ... well, like a fine, refreshing, tongue-tickling glass of delicious dry rosé!

Why revisit the subject? Because the Washington and Oregon rosés featured recently are stylistically in the same camp. They offer bright, often cherry-candy colors and flavors to match. Even when made dry, they have a certain fruity sweetness and charm.

The Euro rosés in this week's column are a different breed entirely. They may come from France, from Italy, from Spain or Portugal — even Greece — but they show a certain sleekness of line, a restraint bordering on austerity, that marks them as Old World. Better yet, it marks them as food wines. That overused term came into play back in the 1980s, when the concept of wine and food going together seemed remarkably avant-garde, and so ... European!

As a marketing concept, the food wine thing is passé now, but in practical terms it's worth considering whenever you reach for a bottle of wine. Some wines go well with food; others not so well. Some are perfectly suited to the sort of picnic spreads that may inspire your food cravings on these warm spring days.

The rosé wines of Europe, when sipped chilled from a simple tumbler or even from a plastic picnic cup, are good thirst-quenchers. But when paired with cold cuts, or cheeses, or pasta salads, or lightly grilled seafood or (let your hunger run wild here, folks) — they really come into their own.

They do not tire the palate, they inspire the palate. Here are other advantages:

• They should be served chilled, perfect for outdoors.

• They taste just as good from a tumbler as from fancy crystal stemware.

• More and more come with user-friendly screwcaps.

• They are a bit lower in alcohol than most domestic white or red wines, and higher in acid, which is a big part of why they are so food-flexible.

My favorites year-in and year-out, reliable and affordable, include many of the bone-dry Spanish rosados such as Marqués de Cáceres ($10), Condé de Valdemar ($7), Cuné Rioja ($7) and Vega Sindoa ($6). From France I always welcome the latest vintage of Ninet de Pena ($9), Perrin's VF Rosé and the Commanderie de la Bargemone ($13).

A word of caution: French rosé wines labeled simply, "Vin du Pays d'Oc," with no further appellation indicated, are often the least interesting, especially if they have some cutesy name and marketing "concept" attached to them. Look for a specific appellation; even if you've never heard of it, it's probably better than plain old Pays d'Oc.

Here are some surefire 2005 Euro rosés:

Montelvini "Monvin Regandino" ($8). This Italian wine has just 11.5 percent alcohol, and a good, sharp spicy precision to it, keeping it focused and crisp, almost lemony, with a hint of spritz. (Wineworth).

Bodegas Ochoa 2005 Garnacha Rosado ($10). From Navarra, Spain, it's bone dry, lightly spicy, pleasingly herbal with rhubarb, cranberry and red currant fruit. (Unique).

Kir-Yianni 2005 "Akakies" ($13). A nice discovery from Greece, with pretty, sour-cherry candy in a soft, still bracing and lightly piney style. (Unique).

Chateau du Donjon 2005 Minervois ($11). Pale salmon colored, fruity and round, this perennial winner from southern France brings berries, cherries and a bit more sweetness in the mouth than most rosés. If you do not want your rosé bone dry, try this. (Elliott Bay).

Les Clos de Paulilles Collioure 2005 Rosé ($15). I always put this one right at the top of the list, for its spicy, racy blend of grenache, syrah and (sometimes) mourvèdre. This year it is available (I'm told by the distributor) only at Campagne, which snagged all 10 cases. Selling it by the glass, I hope. (Unique).

Unless noted, all Wine Adviser recommendations are currently available, though vintages may sometimes differ. All wine shops and most groceries have a wine specialist on staff. Show them this column, and if they do not have the wine in stock, they can order it for you from the local distributor (noted in parentheses).

Seattle Wine Awards

Christopher Chan, the director of wine for Seattle's Rainier Club, staged the first Seattle Sommelier — Washington Wine Awards a few weeks ago. This new wine judging intends to become the most comprehensive Washington wine evaluation in Seattle.

"The goal," says Chan, "is to further the recognition and celebration of Washington wines locally, nationally and internationally." For this first judging, 280 Washington wines were evaluated in blind tastings split between two panels of judges. Sommeliers, wine distributors, wine retailers and wine reviewers (yours truly) were represented on the panels; all seasoned, knowledgeable and (most importantly!) local palates.

Wines were judged in categories according to grape or blend. Points were awarded, and in each category wines achieving minimum point totals qualified for gold, silver or bronze medals. There were just 25 golds awarded, about 9 percent of the entries, which means these winners really stood out from the crowd.

Here are the gold-medal winners; the complete results are posted at at www.seattlewineawards.com.

• Gordon Brothers 2002 Merlot

• Pepper Bridge 2003 Merlot

• Boudreaux Cellars 2003 Cabernet

Sauvignon

• Chateau Ste Michelle 2003 Indian Wells

Cabernet Sauvignon

• Duck Pond 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon

• Bergevin Lane 2003 Calico Red

• Buty 2002 Columbia Rediviva

• Cave B 2003 Cuvée du Soleil

• Woodward Canyon 2002 Estate Red

• Hogue 2003 Malbec

• Walla Walla Vintners 2003 Sangiovese

• Waving Tree 2003 Sangiovese

• Hogue 2003 Syrah

• Northstar 2003 Syrah

• Seven Hills 2003 Walla Walla Valley

Syrah

• Hogue 2005 Pinot Grigio

• Buty 2004 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

• Lone Canary 2005 Sauvignon Blanc

• Hedges Family Estate 2005 CMS White

• Hogue 2004 Chardonnay

• Saint Laurent 2004 Chardonnay

• Woodward Canyon 2001 Celilo

Chardonnay

• Snoqualmie 2004 Naked Riesling

• Bainbridge Island Vineyards 2004 Late

Harvest Botrytised Siegerrebe

• Covey Run 2002 Ice Semillon Reserve

Paul Gregutt can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.