In rainy Washington, we like our rosés dry

Blink and you'll miss them. The spring release of Northwest rosé wines has become a much- anticipated event; I'd wager that nowhere else in the country are the new, local rosés so eagerly awaited and given such attention by sommeliers and consumers.

I am putting the focus on dry rosé, which was almost unknown in this country a few years ago, when sweet pink wines (white zinfandel and the like) were the fashion. Times have changed, and now we like our rosés dry, at least here in Washington. Winemakers are no fools. They can sell these wines barely six months after harvest — that's what we call Chateau cash-flow! They have embraced the dry style with a dazzling variety of offerings.

There are no regulations governing the production and labeling of rosé other than the usual — if they are to carry a varietal designation (grape name) they must be at least 75 percent of the named varietal.

In fact, most local rosés are 100 percent varietal from a single grape (there are exceptions, of course), because they are often made simply by bleeding off juice from a fermenter before it spends more than a day or so on the skins. This concentrates the remaining wine, destined to be a bold, brawny red in most instances, and gives the rosé its characteristic pretty pink or salmon or cherry candy color.

So rosé can be anything — pinot noir, sangiovese, syrah, cab franc, grenache, lemberger, merlot — you name it. Rarely do these wines show any particular varietal character. What you should be most curious about is the vintage (stick with the brand-new 2005s) and the level of sweetness.

Rosés from the new world are meant to be enjoyed when very young; even an extra year will rob them of freshness. And 2005 was an especially fine vintage in Washington. These being the first red-grape wines to be released, they offer the chance to do a quick assessment on the brawnier wines to come.

It's important that you taste before you buy whenever possible because rosés come in an unpredictable array of styles. Many shops do free tastings, and many restaurants offer rosé by the glass. You want to discover how sweet the wine tastes, an important question if you are trying to match it with food.

You can get a general idea of sweetness by looking for the alcohol content (in tiny print around the edge of the label). Anything under 12.5 percent is likely to have some sweetness to it. But I've had rosé wines that tasted tart and dry at 12.3 percent and others that were quite sugary sweet at 13.5 percent, so there are no sure guidelines.

You can check the color for clues as to the wine's overall density. Most Northwest rosés are fruity and round, with flavors predominantly showing strawberry, cherry and melon. They will often have a bright cherry color, which means that they have spent more time on the skins, which also adds heft and tannin. Lighter, paler colors usually translate to lighter, thinner wines with more tart acidity.

The new rosé wines signal the true start of spring. They also disappear just about as quickly. Some are available only by mailing list or at winery tasting rooms and special events. A few (such as the wonderful Barnard Griffin Rosé of Sangiovese) are made in quantities sufficient to be stocked in grocery stores and bigger retailers as well as specialty shops.

Here are some favorites. Don't forget to serve them chilled (but not frozen!):

Daedalus Cellars 2005 Rosé of Pinot Noir; $13. This very pretty, coppery salmon-colored wine shows plenty of fresh strawberry and light tropical fruit, with a tart, raspberry finish. Triage distributes.

Tildio 2005 Pinot Noir Rosé; $10. This Lake Chelan winery puts out a substantial rosé with a nice mix of strawberry, cherry and rhubarb flavors, and a dry, fairly tannic finish.

Gordon Brothers 2005 Rosé; $13. An unusual blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sauvignon blanc, but it works. The sauv blanc gives it a rather pungent, grassy aroma, and the reds support it with pretty, round cherry lifesaver fruit flavors. Intriguing. Odom distributes.

Waterbrook 2005 Sangiovese Rosé; $14. Waterbrook has pulled out the stops with a unique package; the bottle could double as a bowling pin. The wine is soft and fruity, with simple, pleasant, cleanly rendered strawberry and rhubarb flavors. Noble distributes.

Syncline 2005 Rosé; $14. I have been an avid fan of Syncline's rosés in every single vintage, but this new release is the best yet. A blend of four varietals — grenache, cinsault, mourvèdre and syrah — it has more detail and complexity than its peers. It's a sophisticated wine with a distinct beginning, middle and finish. Scents of rosewater, layers of fruits and dabs of herbs and spices all contribute to this smartly executed and compelling effort.

Dunham Cellars 2005 Rosé; $25. The first rosé from Eric Dunham is a one-of-a-kind effort, from cabernet franc grapes grown at the winery's estate vineyard. An unusual coppery gold, it is heavily scented with flower blossoms, honey and tea. It's starting to oxidize but is at a particularly flavorful juncture; it seems to gain complexity in the mouth, finishing quite dry and lingering with that kiss of honey. Cordon distributes.

May 31: A look at new rosés from around the world.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine section.

He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com