Winemaker a mystery, but the secret's out on Chadderdon selections

In the intense, highly competitive world of specialist wine importers, one name that almost always leads to deep inhalations and expressions of puzzlement is Robert Chadderdon.

Chadderdon is a throwback to the time when celebrities valued privacy above all. Consequently, he has been labeled a mystery man by some in the business because he is rarely seen, difficult to contact and has no Web site. One measure of Chadderdon's celebrity is that fellow importer Joe Dressner (of Louis/Dressner Selections) — no slouch when it comes to being opinionated — had two Chadderdon entries in his blog headlined, "Things I Don't Understand About the Wine Industry."

"Although I have been a member of the Wine Industry for 16 years now," writes Dressner, "many things about the industry continue to baffle me. How does Robert Chadderdon run a multimillion dollar, successful business with only one person working for him? How can Mr. Chadderdon eat out at a top restaurant nightly and still remain fabulously healthy?"

I've yet to meet the elusive Mr. C, but I recently spent a very pleasant evening with a genial fellow named Alan Sobczak, whose card reads "President, Robert Chadderdon Selections."

As we tasted through a dozen current Chadderdon selections, I found to my delight that running through them all, like a piece of rebar in a concrete wall, is a sturdy stylistic thread that suggests that each of these wines has come from a particular place. Each has been crafted to present its strengths vertically as well as horizontally. And, in true European old-guard style, none of them relies upon new oak to deliver its solid, seductive flavors.

Bravo! The wines tasted ranged from a nonvintage Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne ($85) to a peaches-and-creamy Kiralyudvar Tokaji 2000 "Cuvée Ilona" 5 Puttonyos ($70). With a discriminating palate obviously at work, my interest was particularly focused on the more affordable wines, which often come from odd or overlooked corners of France.

Among the white wines, I particularly enjoyed a tart, herbal and juicy Jurançon sec "Clos de la Vierge" from Alfred Barrère ($21); and a spectacular Jean-Pierre Dirler dry riesling ($25). Dirler sets a standard that Washington vintners might well emulate.

Turning to the reds, I found an immensely fragrant, soft and penetrating Trenel Fils 2004 Beaujolais Fleurie "Clos des Moriers" ($25); and a pair of Domaine de Nerleux Saumur-Champignys that might well have had rocks in them they were so rich with mineral and graphite flavors.

The 2003 Nerleux "Les Loups Noirs" ($29) is old vine cabernet franc with enormous concentration and a fragrant rush of berry, cherry and rock. The 2003 Nerleux "Clos des Chatains" old vines ($19) is even more astringent and rocky, with amazing density and complexity in a very austere style.

All of these wines are distributed by Elliott Bay and highly recommended.

A taste of Trimbach

Another champion of racy, mineral-laced wines, Hubert Trimbach, was also in town recently. He and his older brother Bernard are the 11th generation to make Trimbach wines, and their brand is known and sold around the globe. Home is Ribeauvillé in Alsace, one of the most beautiful and still-overlooked corners of France.

The mainstay Trimbach wines are riesling, pinot gris and Gewürztraminer, made in a range of bottlings and styles. When exploring estates such as this, whose wines offer a richness of history and a broad perspective on well-defined terroir, it is interesting to see how the more affordable bottles stack up against the rarities.

A great producer will be able to maintain a consistent house style across the full lineup. The inexpensive wines will show the same care and attention as the rarities; the difference being, of course, that the limited-production, pricey wines will have that something extra, that depth and complexity that only the very top wines in the world achieve.

M. Trimbach was kind enough to open some older wines, including some of his classic single-vineyard estate wines. A 1979 Clos Ste. Hune Riesling was in perfect condition (not really surprising when you consider that many critics consider this the greatest dry riesling in the world). Bracingly dry, still fresh and quite complex, the '79 opened with aromas of petrol, matchstick, mineral and smoke, then kept adding on, with grapefruit, flint, gunpowder and more. Still a shockingly youthful green/gold, it actually gained color in the glass!

We also explored some pinot gris — a 2000 Réserve Personnelle ($38) laced with honey and cinnamon notes; and a 2000 "Homage à Jeanne" ($65) made to honor his mother's 100th birthday. On to the 2000 Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre" Gewurztraminer ($38), an exotically perfumed and intense wine showing extraordinary concentration, weight and power.

After wines such as these, how could the everyday wines, the Trimbach "yellow label" riesling and gewurztraminer, possibly compete? The answer: quite well. Both are from the 2003 vintage, quite ripe and full-bodied.

For pure quality I might lean to the gewurz, a classic, floral, dusty wine scented with talcum powder. It penetrates like patchouli oil, and despite being quite dry carries a spicy sweetness. The quandary is what do you eat with it? Spicy Chinese and Cajun foods are suggested, but I'll leave that up to you.

For its sheer food-friendly pizazz, I'm going with the riesling as the Pick of the Week.

How to find wines: Wines mentioned here should be currently available, though vintages may sometimes differ. All wine shops and most groceries have a wine specialist on staff. Show them this column, and if they do not have the wine in stock, they can order it for you from the local distributor.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine

section. He can be reached by

e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.