Dining your way across Seattle's neighborhoods

I'm one of Seattle's best-fed mouths. But I bet I'm not the only one who'd tell the 1,200-plus members of the International Association of Culinary Professionals, hitting town today for their annual conference, that there's more to Seattle than the multitude of must-stops on downtown's delicious map.

We also love to eat and drink in the city's outlying neighborhoods, augmenting the treasure trove that is Pike Place Market and the bright lights we call Belltown. From Capitol Hill to Columbia City, the International District to West Seattle, we've got a lot on our plate. Much of it's great — and not every great place can be found between the covers of a Zagat Survey or listed in the hot-spot section of the nation's gourmet glossies. Here is my list.

BALLARD

Sure, there's Ray's Boathouse, the Shilshole room- with-a-view that wrote the blueprint for Seattle's seafood restaurants (6049 Seaview Ave. N.W.; 206-789-4130; www.rays.com).

But why miss ...

Café Besalu: Taste the City of Light in a single bite of this bustling bakery's croissants and pain au chocolate, and don't miss the silken pastries embellished with sweet ripe fruit (5909 24th Ave. N.W.; 206-789-1463).

Dandelion: This tiny bistro's menu relies on the chef's whim and stars organic produce, wild seafood and naturally raised meats and poultry (5809 24th Ave. N.W.; 206-706-8088).

La Carta de Oaxaca: A vibrant snack shop that offers a taste of Oaxaca: empanadas, enchiladas, mole and more, and a tequila bar, too (5431 Ballard Ave. N.W.; 206-782-8722).

Le Gourmand: Seasonal prix-fixe dinners honor the best of the Northwest while nodding to France. Creative cocktails and small plates at the adjoining Sambar (425 N.W. Market St.; 206-784-3463).

Market Street Grill: An innovative menu tweaks the classics while a well-stocked bar and attentive service add to the fun. (1744 N.W. Market St.; 206-789-6766; www.marketstreetgrill.net).

Volterra: Straightforward Italian fare, superb cocktails and a strong Italian wine list (5411 Ballard Ave. N.W.; 206-789-5100; www.volterrarestaurant.com).

CAPITOL HILL

Sure there's Lark, where carefully cultivated partnerships with foragers and small farmers translate into small-plate sensations (926 12th Ave.; 206-323-5278; www.larkseattle.com).

But why miss ...

Baguette Box: Superior ingredients make this a sandwich-lover's swoon-shop. Beer on tap, inexpensive wines by the glass (1203 Pine St.; 206-332-0220; www.baguettebox.com).

Kingfish Cafe: A sophisticated soul-foodery with a great scene, beloved for its rib-sticking vittles and diet-be-damned desserts (602 19th Ave. E.; 206-320-8757).

Monsoon: This stylish bistro takes taste buds on a tantalizing tour of Vietnam, with wines carefully matched to the menu (615 19th Ave. E.; 206-325-2111; www.monsoonseattle.com)

Via Tribunali: Sexy bar- centric pizzeria is the real Neapolitan deal — and a scenester's haunt.(913 E. Pike St.; 206-322-9234)

Vio's Cafe & Marketplace: Sleek Greek cafe brings a strong sense of community and welcomes children with open arms and a (play) room of their own (903 19th Ave. E.; 206-329-3236).

CHINATOWN / INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT

Sure, there's Uwajimaya, Seattle's Asian specialty market and the jewel in the neighborhood's crown (600 Fifth Ave. S.; 206-624-6248; www.uwajimaya.com).

But why miss ...

King's Barbeque House: Tidy takeout twins offering Chinese barbecue: bargain box lunches, glistening poultry and pork, innards and appendages sold by the pound (518 Sixth Ave. S.; 206-622-2828; and 303 12th Ave. S.; 206-720-4715).

Malay Satay Hut: Addictive curries, flaky roti and avocado shakes draw devotees to this Malaysian food mecca (212 12th Ave S.; 206-324-4091; www.malaysatayhut.com).

Seattle Deli: From bahn mi to sweet-bean balls, fried fish to other home-style eats, they're giving it away at this Vietnamese deli (225 12th Ave. S.; 206-328-0106).

Seven Stars Pepper: Cumin lamb, fresh crab and chong gin chicken are among the distinctively seasoned dishes at this second-story Szechuan restaurant (1207 S. Jackson St., Suite 211; 206-568-6446).

Tamarind Tree: Upscale atmo and buzz-inducing beverages are a big Vietnamese value in the heart of Little Saigon (1036 S. Jackson St., Suite A; 206-860-1404).

Viet Wah Super Market: The sights (live blue crab!), the scents (durian!) the prices (cheap!), the parking (tough!) (1032 S Jackson St., Suite 1032; 206-329-1399).

COLUMBIA CITY

Sure, there's La Medusa, whose seasonal menu mines the Big Boot for inspired Italian food (4857 Rainier Ave. S.; 206-723-2192; www.lamedusarestaurant.com).

But why miss ...

Columbia City Bakery: Their rustic breads, served at a growing number of better restaurants, are the talk of the town. Come for coffee, pastries and good vibes (4865 Rainier Ave. S.; 206-723-6023).

Geraldine's Counter: The classic American diner warmly redesigned and redefined, with comfort food that hits the spot day and night (4872 Rainier Ave. S.; 206-723-2080; www.geraldinescounter.com).

Tutta Bella Neapolitan Pizzeria: A passion for authenticity fuels this friendly pizzeria, where prices are as much of a draw as salads, gelato and Italian coffee (4918 Rainier Ave. S.; 206-721-3501; www.tuttabellapizza.com).

FREMONT

Sure there's PCC Natural Market, Seattle's homegrown food cooperative (600 N. 34th St.; 206-632-6811; www.pccnaturalmarkets.com).

But why miss ...

Blue C Sushi: Kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi: just the thing for raw-fishionados who like to help themselves to their favorite food (3411 Fremont Ave. N.; 206-633-3411; www.bluecsushi.com).

Brouwer's Cafe: Modern Belgian-styled beer hall taps the talents of brewers and scotch makers, adding swell food to quell hearty appetites (400 N. 35th St.; 206-267-1200; www.brouwerscafe.com).

Elemental@Gasworks: Hidden hangout resembles a private dinner party. At too few seats you'll drink what's poured and eat well from a brief, ever-changing menu (3309 Wallingford Ave. N.; 206-547-2317; www.elementalatgasworks.com).

Postmark Gelato: Postcards, gelato, panini — oh my! (3526 Fremont Place N.; 206-545-7560).

Simply Desserts: Let 'em eat cake — a luscious lineup of layered lovelies that beg for a tall glass of milk. (3421 Fremont Ave. N.; 206-633-2671; www.simplydessertsseattle.com).

Swingside Cafe: Funky little Italian cafe invests in bold flavors, broad wine list. (4212 Fremont Ave. N.; 206-633-4057)

GREEN LAKE / WALLINGFORD

Sure there's Nell's, dishing up Euro-influenced Contemporary American elegance-on-a-plate (6804 E. Greenlake Way N.; 206-524-4044; www.nellsrestaurant.com).

But why miss ...

Eva: Expressive chef, impressive dinners and modest prices at this charming bistro with adjoining bar (2227 N. 56th St.; 206-633-3538).

Kisaku: Affable and accommodating staff help make this colorful, comfortable Japanese bistro one of the city's best (2101 N. 55th St.; 206-545-9050; www.kisaku.com).

Luau Polynesian Lounge: Kitschy, kitschy, koo, with mai tais and pupu platters, too (2253 N. 56th St.; 206-633-LUAU; www.luaupolynesianlounge.com).

Zoka: Fresh-roasted coffee scents this crowded neighborhood living room where customers connect online, and off (2200 N. 56th St.; 206-545-4277; www.zokacoffee.com).

GREENWOOD / PHINNEY RIDGE

Sure there's Carmelita, hip, haute, neighborhood nirvana for vegetarians and vegans (7314 Greenwood Ave. N.; 206-706-7703).

But why miss ...

Gordito's: Healthy Mexican — or at least healthier Mexican — is the menu's mantra. Eat in or take out (213 N. 85th St.; 206-706-9352).

Red Mill Burgers: Seattle's best burgers: beef, chicken or chile verde, plus killer onion rings (312 N. 67th St.; 206-783-6362; www.redmillburgers.com).

74th Street Alehouse: British sensibilities and Northwest know-how have long made this corner spot the 'hood's favorite hang (7401 Greenwood Ave. N.; 206-784-2955; www.seattlealehouses.com).

Saltoro: Spirited camaraderie and a Mediterranean-inspired menu help make this one happy, homey place (14051 Greenwood Ave. N.; 206-365-6025).

MADISON VALLEY / ARBORETUM

Sure there's Rover's, where the very French chef showcases his Northwest-accented menu degustation, and the wine list is as deep as it's delightful (2808 E. Madison St.; 206-325-7442; www.rovers-seattle.com).

But why miss ...

Cafe Flora: Meatless in Seattle with dazzling dinners, swell lunches and sunny brunches. (2901 E. Madison St.; 206-325-9100; www.cafeflora.com).

The Harvest Vine: Paean to Spain built by a Basque seduces upstairs (tiny tables, tapas bar) and down (in the cellarlike txoko). (2701 E. Madison St.; 206-320-9771; www.harvestvine.com).

Nishino: Innovation and inspiration raises the (sushi) bar at this Japanese restaurant. (3130 E. Madison St.; 206-322-5800)

Voilà! Bistrot: Familiar French foods simply prepared, plus a petite bar great for a date-night bite. (2805 E. Madison St.; 206-322-5460; www.voilabistro.com).

MADRONA / CENTRAL DISTRICT

Sure there's Crush, a modern re-do of an old Victorian where the "Modern American Cuisine" is as gorgeous as it is good. (2319 E. Madison St.; 206-30-CRUSH; www.crushonmadison.com).

But why miss ...

Crémant: Bistro baby, new on the scene, already drawing Francophiles looking for a flute of its namesake sparkler and traditional country French fare (1423 34th Ave.; 206- 322-4600; www.cremantseattle.com).

Hi-Spot Cafe: Green eggs and ham — and other specialties — still egg-cite breakfast and brunchers (1410 34th Ave.; 206-325-7905; www.hispotcafe.com).

St. Clouds: Warm welcome, kicked up comfort food, family friendly, cocktails in the adjoining bar (1131 34th Ave.; 206-726-1522; www.stclouds.com).

QUEEN ANNE

Sure there's Canlis, where Seattle has celebrated life's special moments for more than half a century (2576 Aurora Ave. N.; 206-283-3313; www.canlis.com).

But why miss ...

Barbacoa: Highbrow hootch and vibrant vittles mean Tex-Mex magic at this skinny, sassy storefront (2209 Queen Anne Ave. N.; 206-352-6213; www.barbacoarestaurant.com).

Bricco Della Regina Anna: Wondrous little wine bar, where the cheese list rivals the wine list for length and breadth (1525 Queen Anne Ave. N.; 206-285-4900; www.briccoseattle.com).

Crow: Big, boisterous restaurant and bar with streamlined seasonal menu and solid service (823 Fifth Ave. N.; 206-283-8800).

TeaCup: Educated staff adds to the pleasures of this tiny tearoom. Sit and sip, then take home a stash (2207 Queen Anne Ave. N.; 206-283-5931; www.seattleteacup.com).

Tini Bigs: Supersize cocktails, both classic and new, in more flavors than you can shake a swizzle stick at (100 Denny Way; 206-284-0931; www.tinibigs.com).

WEST SEATTLE

Sure there's Ovio Bistro, a brash urban bistro known for big plates, bold flavors (4752 California Ave. S.W.; 206-935-1774; www.oviobistro.com)

But why miss ...

Eats Market Cafe: "Your neighborhood bakery cafe" takes its culinary cues from Bubbie by day, and at night offers seasonally inspired dinners capable of besting better bistros everywhere (Westwood Village, 2600 S.W. Barton St., Unit B8; 206-933-1200; www.eatsmarket.com)

Mashiko: Creative, innovative, offbeat sushi joint gets it right (4725 California Ave. S.W.; 206-935-4339; www.sushiwhore.com).

Metropolitan Market: Food fanciers fall for this truly "super" market (2320 42nd Ave. S.W.; 206-937-0551; www.metropolitan-market.com).

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or taste@seattletimes.com.

See more columns at seattletimes.com/nancyleson

Catch Nancy Leson's commentaries on food and restaurants on the third Wednesday of each month on KPLU (88.5 FM) at 6:30 a.m., 8:30 a.m. and 4:45 p.m, and again the following Sunday at 6:30 and 8:30 a.m.