Recipe: Pan-Fried Scallion-Chive Breads

Makes four 6-inch breads

- 1 tablespoon flavorful oil (see Kitchen Note)

- 1 tablespoon Hot Chili Oil (see related recipe) or purchased hot chili oil

- 1 ½ cups thinly sliced green and white scallion (green onion) rings

- ½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves and stems

- ½ cup finely chopped Chinese chives or regular chives

- 2 cups all-purpose flour

- 2 teaspoons baking powder

- 1/3 cup very hot tap water

- 1/3 cup cold water

- 1/3 to ½ cup corn or peanut oil, for pan-frying

1. Combine oil and chili oil in a small dish and set aside. Combine scallions, cilantro and chives in another bowl and set aside.

2. Combine flour and baking powder in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the flat paddle. With machine running on low speed, add hot and cold water in quick succession. Stop machine as soon as dough comes together in a soft ball. If it's very tacky and sticky, add a bit more flour.

3. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured board. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest 15 minutes. (If the dough has been made in a food processor, let rest 40 minutes.) Roll gently into a smooth log. Cut evenly into 4 pieces, then put each piece, cut side down, on the lightly floured board. Cover with plastic wrap.

4. Working with a piece at a time, shape dough by rolling into a thin, even circle about 7 ½ inches in diameter. Brush top with a generous film of the oil mixture, then sprinkle evenly with a rounded ¼ teaspoon salt. Heap dough with 2/3 cup of reserved greens, then spread evenly over top. Roll up dough into a fat cylinder — it doesn't need to be too tight. Grasp one end of the dough and wind other end around it in a tight spiral. Tuck tail end underneath and press lightly with your hand to flatten. Gently roll out into a 6-inch circle. Put aside on a freshly floured spot, then repeat with remaining dough.

5. Cook breads immediately to prevent a soggy texture. Heat an 8- to 10-inch heavy skillet over high heat until a bead of water evaporates on contact. Add enough oil to glaze bottom by 1/8 inch, swirling to coat; reduce heat to moderate. When oil is hot enough to foam a pinch of flour, add first bread to pan. Cook until bottom is golden and a bit crusty, 3 to 4 minutes. Adjust heat so bread doesn't scorch. Flip and fry until golden, about 3 minutes longer. Remove to paper towel-lined plate. Repeat process with oil and remaining dough.

6. Serve breads fresh from skillet, each cut into fourths. Or let cool and hold at room temperature up to 8 hours. Reheat in 350-degree oven until hot, about 5 minutes.

Times Kitchen Note: A good-quality flavored oil should be used in this recipe. Possibilities include tangerine-flavored oil, or 1 teaspoon sesame oil mixed with 2 teaspoons corn or peanut oil.