New Belltown watering hole; Bainbridge goes pan-Asian

Axis (2214 First Ave., Seattle), the Belltown restaurant better known for its bar scene, closed its doors in December after eight years. According to Axis' owner Jim Malevitsis, the place is set to reopen as yet another bar-centric restaurant courtesy of the folks who brought us Pioneer Square's Cowgirls Inc. American Saloon.

Unfamiliar with Cowgirls Inc.? It's where urban cowgirls double as serving staff and where their nonworking counterparts entice urban cowboys by riding bucking bulls — stationary and otherwise.

Bucking the Belltown scene altogether — and reportedly happy to do so — is Malevitsis, whose restaurateuring credits includes the late, great Adriatica (closed in 2001) and scenic Ponti Seafood Grill (now solely owned by Rich Malia, with whom he founded Axis).

Malevitsis is keeping busy scouring the city in search of a new restaurant venue, with hopes of having something up and running in the next few months. "I really want to get back to doing a dinner house like Adriatica and Ponti," he says, revealing plans to forge a new partnership with his old pal Raffaelle Calise.

Remember Calise? The chef who had 'em lining up down the block at the original Salute in Ravenna back in the day? He recently closed his latest effort, Salute at the Stadiums, in Sodo.

Malevitsis reports that we can expect their new gig, wherever it may set anchor, to have a strong Mediterranean-inspired menu with classics from Calise's Southern Italian repertoire and favorites (bring back the calamari with skordalia!) culled from Adriatica's playbook.

Meanwhile, on Bainbridge Island

After too many years catering to the drink-my-dinner crowd, executive chef Alvin Binuya quietly left Axis in April. Today he's proud co-owner of Madoka (241 Winslow Way W., Bainbridge Island, 206-842-2448; www.madokaonbainbridge.com), a "Pan-Pacific" restaurant open since October in the re-envisioned former home of Bistro Pleasant Beach.

"It's really refreshing to be away from the downtown thing," says the Vashon Island native who helped add the words "fusion cuisine" to the nation's culinary lexicon. "It's rejuvenating. Here, I can go back to creating and working on a smaller, less-competitive scale."

Those who didn't know Binuya when he was a boy-wunderkind, take note: He worked under Tom Douglas at Café Sport, as the original chef-exec at the Brooklyn and garnered national attention for Ponti before opening Axis. At Ponti, he met his future business partner Jose Gonzales, who runs the front of the house at Madoka.

With 120 seats and an upstairs bar and lounge, their Bainbridge newcomer draws island residents looking for a comfortable finer-dining venue. And it's accessible by foot from the Bainbridge ferry terminal for Seattleites looking for dinner and a boat ride.

Here you'll find wild seafood, hormone- and antibiotic-free meats and poultry, and local produce promoted on a menu that borrows from Asian and Latin cultures with dishes like smoked duck tamales ($8), sake-braised lamb shank ($21) and red curry seafood risotto ($19). Madoka is open for dinner 5:30-10 p.m. (closed Tuesdays).

They're ready when you are

Hungry for new restaurants? Several up-and-comers noted in this column last year recently up and came. If you haven't already been, go check them out — then drop me a line and let me know what you think. Among them:

Tutta Bella Pizzeria & Espresso (4411 Stone Way N., Seattle, 206-633-3800; www.tuttabellapizza.com) Wallingford's version of the Columbia City original. Here you'll find beautifully blistered Neapolitan pizzas simply adorned with quality ingredients. Inexpensive wines, great desserts (Bottega Italiano gelato!) and Attibassi espresso are part of the draw. Dine in or call ahead for take-out. Open 3-10 p.m. daily, with extended hours (11 a.m.-10 p.m.) beginning Jan. 21.

As promised, Eric Cozens and Peter Morse of West Seattle's bar-happy hangout, Mission, have introduced a family-friendlier new sibling next door. Dubbed Blackbird Bistro (2329 California Ave. S.W., Seattle, 206-937-2875; www.blackbirdbistro.com), this re-do of Café Zaffarano is offering "New American bistro cuisine" (read: mac 'n' cheese, pan-fried chicken, peppered ahi) and touts "local, seasonal and organic flavors" at neighborly prices (lunch items are $10 or less, dinner entrées average about $14). Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily, with dinner service beginning at 5 p.m.

Lower Queen Anne saw a quick turnaround when chefs Pete Morrison (ex-Chez Shea) and Lauri Allen Carter (from Matt's in the Market ) leased and remodeled the recently shuttered Nonna Maria. Today they're offering "Food with Nerve" at Moxie (530 First Ave. N., Seattle, 206-283-6614. Entrées, including harissa-marinated monkfish, acorn squash risotto and New York strip with ancho-chile molasses butter, range from $11-$20. Note: Half-price happy hour noshes, a late-night bar menu and a reasonably priced wine list add to the fun. Open 4-midnight, nightly.

Proving that when one door closes another opens, Jim Buchanan shuttered his stylish upscale soul-food restaurant Alexandria's on 2nd last month. That Belltown closure coincided with the opening of his latest venture, JoAnna's Soul Café & Jazz Club (2514 E. Cherry St., Seattle, 206-568-6300). There in the made-over La Louisiana space, dinner is served nightly and live jazz is on the menu Tuesdays through Sundays. Weekday lunch service is slated to begin next week, with brunch debuting Sunday.

Buchanan hopes to be happier and more profitable here in the heart of the Central District, where cocktails are served and Alexandria's chef Michael Franklin continues to cook up his version of "soul food with a touch of class." Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. weekdays, dinner 5-11 p.m. nightly, with a late-night menu till 1 a.m. Brunch 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m.

Tuesday marked the debut of Scotty Simpson's new Capitol Hill restaurant, Fork (806 E. Roy St., Seattle, 206-325-7400; www.forkseattle.com), in the historic Loveless Building. Simpson says he's thrilled with his new kitchen team, including chefs Jared Stoneberg, Tyler Moritz and pastry chef Amanda Spencer. Want a taste of their monthly changing menu? Here's a nibble: lobster corn dog; scallops with horseradish-carrot reduction and beet foam; duck breast with creamy polenta and smoked tea broth; and chocolate liquid cake with chipotle ice cream. Entrée prices range from $16-$28. Plans for lunch and brunch are in the offing. For now, Fork is serving dinner only 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays.

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or taste@seattletimes.com.

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