Compliments to the cheese-plate maker

Plenty of entertaining challenges lie ahead as the winter holidays approach. Fortunately, there's a sophisticated, classic party pleaser you can count on that looks great and requires almost no preparation: the cheese plate.

Having spent two years behind the cheese counter at a gourmet grocery, I know that putting together a cheese platter can be an intimidating prospect for many. But there is no reason to fear: When it comes to cheese, a little bit of exploration goes a long way, and gourmet shops carry a number of can't-miss options.

These selections of both European classics and up-and-coming American cheeses present a full range of flavors, with none so strong or sharp that they are an entertaining risk.

Some notes on preparing a cheese plate: Most varieties are best at room temperature. The time needed to achieve this varies, but for most cheeses about an hour should do. It's also a good idea to serve no more than three or four kinds at a single gathering; any more and you risk confusing your guest's palate.

And while we have suggested food and drink to complement your selections, it's worth noting that these wonderful cheeses are exceptional on their own as well.

American Artisanal Camembert

About $20 a pound

Taste: Creamy, delicate and somewhat salty, Camembert is a French classic — but domestic versions can taste more genuine than most imports.

Character: While any soft-ripened, cow's-milk cheese formed into a small disk can call itself a Camembert, only those produced in Normandy, France, are the real thing. Unfortunately, finding a quality French specimen can be difficult, thanks to laws that prohibit importing unpasteurized milk products aged less than 60 days. Luckily, a number of domestic dairies make Camembert that's superior to the pasteurized, factory-produced French varieties.

Pairings: Serve with grapes and other fruits, or pair it with a compote or preserve such as an Adriatic fig spread. To drink, try a fruity gamay.

About $20 a pound

Taste: A dry, sharp and textured cheese with a flavor that becomes more complex as it ages.

Character: Cheddar, the world's most popular cheese, originated in the British countryside. But most contemporary versions, made all over the world, bear little resemblance to the original farmhouse variety — which, like most classic English cheese, is cut from a large, stout drum. Six-month-aged cheddar is fairly standard, though you can find the cheese aged up to three years.

Pairings: Its bucolic tang goes wonderfully with sweet accompaniments such as whole-wheat table crackers or fruit chutneys. A smooth porter or a bittersweet stout can make this cheddar a meal.

Cougar Gold

$18 per 30-ounce can

Taste: A rich, nutty and sharp cheese with the consistency of a soft cheddar.

Character: The Washington State University creamery produces this cow's-milk cheese that is best known for coming in a decorated tin can. Don't let the quirky presentation distract you: This is an excellent cheese. You can order a can online from the university Web site (www.wsu.edu/creamery).

Pairings: Cougar Gold's strong flavor goes well with smoked Pacific salmon and a good brown ale.

Creamy Goat Cheese

About $7 for a six-ounce tub

Taste: A fresh, very mild and delicate chevre that often resembles ricotta cheese in texture.

Character: With only days between a goat's milking and the formation of this cheese, a young chevre's taste all comes down to happy, healthy goats. Firefly Farms, of Maryland's Allegheny plateau, and Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. are known for pampering their nannies. VBCC, a longtime producer of quality chevre, combines its classic chevre with a goat's-milk heavy cream and ricotta to make its light, spreadable variety.

Pairings: If the flavor is too mild for you, spread the cheese on toast and add fresh basil and a dash of Hungarian paprika. The cheese's meek flavor means it can go with a wassail, a wine — or even a Coke.

Gorgonzola Dolce

About $10 a pound

Taste: A younger cousin to the sharper Gorgonzola Piccante, this cheese has a softer, sweeter blue-cheese flavor that's more accommodating to a range of palates.

Character: Hailing from Lombardy, the cow's-milk blue is one of Italy's most famous exports. The cave-aged cheese has a soft, moist texture, and the younger Dolce variety can almost be spread. Once a seasonal cheese, Gorgonzola is now made year-round, though it is still essentially produced the way it has been for more than 1,000 years.

Pairings: For an interesting take on traditional antipasto, wrap chunks of Gorgonzola Dolce and sliced mango in thin sheets of prosciutto. Serve with a sweet Italian white.

Morbier au Lait Cru

About $12 a pound

Taste: A strong, grassy, yeasty aroma accentuates its sweet, nutty flavor that's neither too strong nor too mild.

Character: This semisoft cow's-milk cheese is distinguished by a vegetable ash stripe that today is largely for decoration. Originally, the ash separated the halves of the wheel, which were made from two separate milkings — the morning milk of a dozing cow and evening milk after an active day. If you can find a morbier that is still made in the traditional way, you should be able to taste the difference.

Pairings: Morbier's rustic flavor is enhanced by country bread, walnuts, saucisson salami coated with herbs de Provence and a light, fruity red.

Taleggio

About $12 a pound

Taste: Its refined, buttery taste makes Taleggio one of Italy's lesser-known culinary treasures.

Character: This washed-rind, raw cow's-milk cheese is a product of northern Italy, where it is often thinly sliced and served over polenta. Plated in bulgy cubes, Taleggio should be soft enough to cut with a butter knife. Its full aroma will likely draw a crowd, so it is not a bad idea to buy more than you think you will need.

Pairings : Perfect with chunk of Tuscan bread and sliced apples and pears. Try a full-bodied Italian red such as a Chianti.