Makes 8 servings

Sea salt

1 whole salmon, about 4 pounds, gutted, rinsed and patted dry

½ medium onion, thinly sliced

½ lemon, thinly sliced

1 small bunch fennel fronds or fresh dill

Kitchen string

All-purpose flour for dusting

Olive oil for brushing

Lemon wedges and fennel fronds or fresh dill for garnish

1. Fire up the grill, with the coals lined up for direct heat about 5 to 6 inches below the fish. Sprinkle sea salt generously in the cavity of the fish and over the skin, then stuff cavity with onion, lemon and fennel or dill. Tie kitchen string around fish in 3 or 4 places to hold stuffing in. In between strings, make deep incisions with your knife through the thickest part of the fish on both sides, all the way down to the spine, so fish will cook more quickly and smoke flavor will get inside fish.

2. Lightly dust one side of fish with flour. Brush both floured sides of fish and the grate with oil, then place salmon on grill, floured side down. Once salmon is on grill, lightly dust other side with flour and brush with oil.

3. Grill salmon over medium-hot direct heat, with lid on and vents open. (Maintain heat at 300 degrees to 350 degrees.) When skin side facing the grill is nicely browned, after about 20 minutes, use two large spatulas to flip fish to other side. Slide spatula under fish in several places to detach skin from grill. Continue to grill until fish is just cooked through in the thickest part of the fish, about 10 to 20 minutes longer. Remove from grill, place on platter, cut off string, and let rest 10 minutes.

4. Garnish salmon with lemon wedges and fennel or dill. Put fennel butter in a small bowl and serve on the side.

From "Tom's Big Dinners" by Tom Douglas with Ed Levine, Shelley Lance and Jackie Cross