Cobblers, crisps and crumbles to warm the heart

The fragrant fruit desserts known as cobblers, crisps and crumbles are in a class of their own. They're much easier to make than pies because there's no bottom crust to underbake or stick to the pan. And they have all of the intense fruit flavor that makes pies so universally loved.

What separates the three desserts are their toppings, which offer contrasting textures and flavors to the velvety fruit fillings.

Cobblers, for instance, are topped with a soft biscuit dough that can be cut into shapes or formed by hand into rough pieces that resemble cobblestones.

Crisps are capped with a loose, buttery crumb mixture that often contains nuts and spices as well as sugar, flour or cookie crumbs. Crumbles are similar, but with a heavier streusel-like topping that includes oatmeal.

Despite their differences, the desserts share a kinship, and their fillings are interchangeable. Keep the following tips in mind for all of the cobblers, crisps and crumbles in your repertoire.

Small amounts of dried fruits — cranberries, cherries, currants or raisins — can be added to the fruit mixture. If they've lost some of their freshness, you may need to plump them up a bit. Soak for about 15 minutes in water or fruit juice, in liquors such as rum or brandy, or in a fruit liqueur.

Whole pieces of citrus and soft-fleshed fruits such as kiwi and banana aren't good choices for these baked desserts.

Because a fruit's sweetness can vary so much, the amount of sugar will vary, too. Begin with three-quarters of the sugar required in the recipe and then add more to taste. Because fruit is acidic and these desserts don't have a bottom crust as protection, use oven-proof glass or porcelain dishes instead of metal.

Fruit fillings can be mixed a few hours in advance of cooking. Spread in the pan, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Put the topping on just before baking.

Don't overload the baking dish because the juices could bubble up and overflow onto the heating element. Place a piece of foil or a foil-lined baking sheet on the oven rack below the dish.

Cobblers and crisps are at their best when served warm the day they're made. Covered with foil, they can be refrigerated up to three days.

Sources: "Classic Home Desserts" by Richard Sax; "Great Pies and Tarts" by Carole Walter.