Anti-cancer cookbook has recipes for health

Almost four years ago, the American Institute for Cancer Research devised its vision of "the new American plate." Fruits, vegetables, whole grains and beans — not the typical hefty portions of animal protein and mashed potatoes with a spoonful of veggies — should dominate dinner. The reason, says the group, which funds diet- and cancer-related research, is simple: Studies suggest that a diet rich in plant foods helps to guard against cancer.

At the time, the agency published a brochure with recipes. Then it developed healthful recipes for its Web site, www.aicr.org, and subsequent booklets, so a cookbook was a logical next step.

"The New American Plate" cookbook by the American Institute for Cancer Research staff (University of California Press, $24.95) is not a diet book, although one could shed a few pounds by paying attention to portion sizes and the higher veggie-grain-bean-to-protein ratio. The dishes play up use of fresh ingredients, spices and herbs. Dishes such as Curried Cauliflower with Chickpeas and Green Peas, Greek-style Scallops and Southwestern Vegetable Frittata illustrate the scope of the recipes.

The book veers from the usual chapter format of appetizers, entrees, salads and the like. The first section tackles the separate elements of the new American plate, while the second combines vegetables, fruits, whole grains, beans and protein sources into one-pot meals such as casseroles, stews, salads and frittatas. Section 3 dishes up the extras — appetizers, soups, breads, muffins and dessert. (Yes, there is room for dessert, and baked goods, at that. They tend to be fruit-based and use white sugar sparingly.)

A primer of cooking techniques in the back of the book is followed by a list of fruits and vegetables, their health benefits and how to prepare them. The final section explains how the institute has interpreted scientific studies on the cancer-preventing makeup of fruits and veggies.

Eating healthfully is often a hard sell because the perception is one of grilled chicken breast and plain steamed vegetables. But liberal use of spices and herbs and well-designed combinations of fruits and vegetables pack these recipes with maximum flavor. They are not overly complicated, but you'll need to know your way around a kitchen and to stock your larder with more than canned goods and convenience foods.