For mourning fans of the late Cassis on Capitol Hill, it must have been comforting as cassoulet to learn another French bistro was opening there: courtesy of two Frenchmen, no less.

Chef Eric Francy and his business partner, Axel Macé, debuted XO Bistro in November. This is the pair who bought Maximilien, the long-loved French cafe in the Pike Place Market, from their former employers back in 1997. Today they share responsibility for both restaurants, with Macé maintaining his managerial presence at Maximilien and Francy lending oversight in both kitchens — leaving the day-to-day operations of XO Bistro in the hands of chef Charles Maddrey.

At XO Bistro, as at its predecessor, neighbors can be found ramping up the volume on weekend evenings. A new color scheme is among few cosmetic changes. As before, you'll find the locals snacking on frites and fromages or indulging their Francophilic inclinations over closely spaced, candle-lit tables with country classics such as coq au vin and tarte tatin.

La difference? Over the years, Cassis became both a neighborhood favorite and a low-key destination restaurant. Whether XO will achieve that wide-ranging appeal remains to be seen. Still an enfant, it's lacking a strong front-of-the-house presence and consistency in the kitchen. Young staffers range from friendly and knowledgeable to friendly and absent-minded, while the fare they're serving ranges in execution from delicious to disappointing.

XO Bistro 2359 10th Ave. E., Seattle; 206-328-6444 French $$ ** Reservations: recommended. Web site: www.xobistro.com Hours: dinner 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays- Thursdays, 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; happy hours 5-7 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays, 9:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Prices: appetizers/ salads $5-$14; entrees $11-$24; desserts $6-$8; children's menu: starters $4-$5, entrees $6-$8. Wine list: a modest list of French and Northwest labels with modest prices to match; selected wines available by the glass or flight. Sound: loud. Parking: private lot in rear of building. Who should go: denizens of north Capitol Hill and nearby environs in search of a casual meal with a French accent. Full bar / credit cards: MC, V / no obstacles to access / no smoking.

I was charmed by bouillabaisse ($24), a seafood special built with monkfish and grouper, scented with saffron and garnished with a rouille-spread crouton. Scallops, mussels and clams poised prettily in their shells in the tomato-stoked broth. Equally ingratiating was the steak frites ($24), a well-trimmed, generously cut New York strip embellished with cracked peppercorns and Roquefort butter, served with chubby, herb-strewn fries.

But cassoulet de Castelnaudary ($18) offered a dreary rendition of the Languedoc stew. It lacked a proper crust and sported a dried-out leg of duck confit, logs of overcooked garlic sausage and beans that tasted not unlike refritos. Worse, this assemblage arrived tepid, as did the open-faced grilled chicken and brie sandwich ($11). The coq au vin ($14), an undistinguished breast and winglet, never melded with its stewed ingredients and shrieked sharply of wine that was either not fit for cooking or had not been properly cooked. The same problem also afflicted the French onion soup ($7).

That said, if this were my neighborhood, I'd need no excuse to plant myself at the bar. Just like the fellow who, newspaper in hand, sipped a martini before lighting into a Roquefort-and-bacon burger, a beefy-tasting two-fisted treat built on a ciabatta roll ($12).

Dining alone, I'd be more likely to commune with a glass of Pernod ($7) and a cocotte of moules marinières ($12.50). The Pernod, an anise-scented elixir whose medicinal qualities cannot be underestimated, arrives in a tapered glass filled with ice — with water on the side for diluting. The classic French mussel dish comes in a cooking vessel heaped with Penn Cove's finest, steamed with white wine, shallots, butter and parsley.

Were I to repair to XO with a companion, I'd rather sit in the smaller dining nook up front as it's (somewhat) quieter than tables set elsewhere. I'd insist we start with "Le Melange" ($14), a medley of charcuterie and fromages. A representative selection of the meats might include sliced duck breast, spicy sausage, a fine country-style paté and rough-hewn rillettes best spread on warm baguette. The careful selection of properly ripened cheeses are alternately sharp and mild, dry and creamy.

A wine flight proves a fun "science experiment," matching French and Northwest varietals. To distinguish one from the other, each of four glasses is set over a diagrammed place mat. I preferred the French sauvignon blancs to the Washington ($15). Turning to the pinot noirs ($16), Oregon's Cristom held more appeal than Burgundy's Jean-Luc Joillot, while an off-tasting Yamhill County pinot, poured from the dregs of a bottle, had clearly sat open too long.

Tarte flambée — a simple, savory, thin-crusted Alsatian tart — is offered as an appetizer ($6) or with salad or fries as an entree ($11.50). The distinct yet balanced flavors of sautéed onion, smoky bacon and nutty cheese soothed with crème fraîche puts this high on my "recommended" list.

As for dessert, I recommend ending your meal with a cheese course ($10): Sweets tend to suffer from a bad case of je ne sais blah. That affliction was exemplified by tarte tatin ($7), with tired apples and a droopy crust, and a highly touted crème brûlée ($7), whose caramel crown was flabby rather than brittle.

So, how come a French bistro gets the bouillabaisse right and the cassoulet wrong, triumphs with tarte flambée and trips up with tarte tatin? Perhaps Francy needs to spend more time in his Capitol Hill kitchen. And Macé might consider lending his expertise up front.

Meanwhile, XO offers enough pleasures to offset its shortcomings. Along with its kiss and hug, it happily embraces the neighborhood bistro ethic with friendly service, affordable prices, an interesting children's menu and a generous happy hour, making this a worthwhile stop for the budget-minded Francophile.

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or taste@seattletimes.com. More columns at www.seattletimes.com/nancyleson.