Taste of the Town / Nancy Leson
Checking into the ever-evolving hotel restaurant circuit

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Wanna go hotel-hopping? Better get in line.

There's serious movement afoot at hotel restaurants all around town, including notice of the upcoming departure of Johnathan Sundstrom, executive chef at Earth & Ocean in the W Hotel (1112 Fourth Ave. S., Seattle; 206-264-6060), who leaves at month's end. Under Sundstrom's three-year tenure, the hip hotel restaurant found its groove — courtesy of the man whose global vision and Seattle sensibility gave the menu what it previously lacked: focus, finesse and local flavor.

Not surprisingly, Sundstrom's exodus marks a new beginning: as chef/co-owner of Lark, a casual neighborhood restaurant slated to open in late November. Lark will inhabit a familiar address: 926 12th Ave., long-time home of Kokeb Ethiopian restaurant. Joining Sundstrom in his new venture is his wife, J.M. Enos (a familiar front-of-the-house presence from E&O and Nell's), and their pal Kelly Ronan.

Taking over at Earth & Ocean is Maria Hines, who held the executive sous-chef position when E&O opened in 1999 and later worked under Sundstrom before heading to Washington, D.C. and then to New York City to round out her more-than-respectable résumé. Hines' menu-imprint will embrace a regional American theme, with organic and vegetarian tasting-menu options available.

Matt Costello recently decamped from the Alexis Hotel, leaving the Library Bistro and Bookstore Bar to take over as executive chef and general manager at the Inn at Langley. (Note to my husband, or anyone else looking to impress a loved one with a wonderful gift: A night at that gorgeous inn at 400 First St., Langley; 360-221-3033, and dinner à la Costello has "Honey, I Love You" written all over it.)

With its small, rustic dining room, monthly changing prix-fixe menu, weekend-dinner-only hours (beginning at 7 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and at 6 p.m. Sundays) and Whidbey Island locale, the Inn at Langley gig is a low-key about-face for Costello, who, like Sundstrom, made a name for himself as a lead chef for Tom Douglas Restaurants before hitting the hotel circuit.

Quick on the heels of Costello's "buh-bye" comes news that Library Bistro in the Alexis Hotel (92 Madison St., Seattle; 206-624-3646 — you knew it as the Painted Table), has ceased dinner service. Though breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch are still available, dinner's demise leaves the Alexis' signature-restaurant with the space it reportedly needs to become "Seattle's most comfortable private dining venue."

The long-popular street-side Bookstore Bar, adjacent to the Library Bistro, will continue serving drinks and casual fare and remains open evenings.

Speaking of the restaurant formerly known as the Painted Table: Its former chef-exec, Tim Kelley, who left to strut his stuff at Zoe in New York City two years ago, did just that. But despite his love for New York — and the critical acclaim bestowed upon him in that tough-love town — he's leaving next month with plans to pay Seattle a visit before heading overseas to Thailand and Vietnam, with potential stops in Singapore, Bali and Australia. That tour, says Kelley, will last anywhere from three months to a year. It will hopefully include apprenticeships with well-known chefs ("Hey! I'll work for free!"), and provide the impetus for going out on his own.

Kelley plans to eventually open a small Asian-inspired restaurant — one worth cloning — upon his return to New York. That said, he admits he left too many friends (and many of his favorite restaurants) when he left Seattle, and won't discount the idea of returning to the Emerald City to try his luck as a restaurateur here at a later date.

Over at the Sheraton Seattle Hotel & Towers (1400 Sixth Ave., Seattle; 206-621-9000 ) there's been a theme change at the little bar adjacent to the private-dining facility that once famously did business as the fine-dining restaurant, Fullers. Late last month, the former Oyster Bar quietly became "The Gallery: A Northwest Wine Bar. "

With 185 wines by the bottle and more than (gasp!) 120 wines by the glass, the new addition is meant to showcase much of the great grape the Greater Northwest has to offer, including little-known wineries from Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia. Patrons relaxing in the lobby's Gallery Lounge are welcome to sample from the wine bar's extensive collection. Wine bar hours are 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday and 11 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Closing time is nebulous, but don't expect much action after 10 p.m.

Another new addition at the Sheraton is the 20-seat Dilettante Mocha Cafe. A November opening is planned for the remodeled spot where the quick-service Italian-styled deli, Andiamo once stood.

Poised to offer a dose of sweet salvation — via premium chocolate-enhanced confections, beverages and pastries — this should be just the ticket for jet-lagged travelers and time-crunched Seattleites in need of buzz-inducing treat.

At 727 Pine — the marvelously mirrored, casually chic dining space in the Grand Hyatt Seattle (727 Pine St., Seattle; 206-774-6400CQ), Shannon Galusha steps up from his position as sous-chef to take on the job as chef de cuisine — and take on the responsibility of running the restaurant kitchen. On staff since shortly after 727's long-anticipated and much-acclaimed opening, Galusha maintains a Northwest-oriented focus, with offerings that include fresh local seafood, prime steaks and a creative bar menu. 727 Pine serves breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday, brunch Saturday and Sunday and dinner nightly.

Those wondering what's up with 727 Pine's opening chef, Danielle Custer, whose daringly delicious edibles made a big splash at the restaurant's debut (and who gives the big nod to Galusha's ascension), should note that she's still in town and keeping busy.

Presently consulting (with area food-producers), teaching (at the Seattle Culinary Academy at Seattle Central Community College) and dining out (as much as possible), she's also lending her expertise as a food stylist and involved as a member of the local chapter of Les Dames d'Escoffier. She and her pal Monique Barbeau — very late of Fullers — prepared dinner for Les Dames last weekend at Islandwood, on Bainbridge Island.

Though busy with culinary affairs and events, Custer can't help admitting that after 14 years spent in restaurant kitchens, and more than a year spent out of one, she misses the excitement and adrenaline rush that comes with running a restaurant. Meaning ... ?

Meanwhile, way out East in Snoqualmie, where one can celebrate fall by the Falls, comes news of an executive chef change at Salish Lodge & Spa (6501 Railroad Ave., Snoqualmie; 425-888-255). After two years as top toque at the Salish, chef-exec Mike Davis has moved on to the big city: beautiful downtown Walla Walla, where he'll open 26{+o} brix in the Dacres Hotel (207 W. Main St., 509 526-4075). ETA: early next year. Roy Breiman takes his toque, joining the staff at the Salish Lodge this week after four years in Martha's Vineyard, Mass. where he served as chef-exec at Winnetu Inn and Resort.

Classically trained, with a résumé heavily influenced by stints at French restaurants in the states and abroad, Breiman (who headed-up the kitchen at Portland's Avalon restaurant prior to moving to Martha's Vineyard) is looking forward to his return to the Northwest.

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or taste@seattletimes.com. More columns at www.seattletimes.com/columnists.

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