A taste of Africa in downtown Seattle at Pan Africa Market

Pan Africa Market in the Pike Place Market offers the harried shopper a calm space in which to sit, look out the big windows facing First Avenue and sample the flavors of African cuisines.

Since opening in 2003, this understated cafe has drawn market customers hungry for exploring the continent's diversity. Besides the standard Ethiopian fare, restaurant owner Mulugeta "Mulu" Abate offers up dishes hailing from, among other places, Mozambique, Senegal and Zanzibar.

The menu: Vegan, beef, lamb, chicken and seafood choices, most under $10, encompass the lunch menu. For an Ethiopian dish, try the veggie combo ($8.50), a typical sampler of cabbage stew, red lentils, split peas, seasoned greens and carrots served on injera bread, or the African beef stew ($9.50), a mildly spiced, generous helping of curried beef mixed with okra and tomatoes served on injera bread. The chicken yassa ($8.50), cooked in onions, mustard and olives, and the fish groundnut stew ($11), a concoction of yams, carrots and white fish served over rice, are inspired by West African cuisine.

The dinner menu sports higher prices and includes appetizers and a few more entrees. Starting this weekend, a revamped breakfast menu is being offered.

What to write home about: The succulent chicken piri piri ($10.50), popular in the ex-Portuguese colonies of Mozambique and Angola, tickles the taste buds with strong lime and chili flavors and is served with a salad of lettuce, potatoes and pineapple chunks.

What to skip: The curried corn ($8), which the menu describes as sweet corn in a coconut cilantro sauce, was bland. It came with rice and a salad of lettuce, oranges, apples and tomatoes.

The setting: Frugality is the watchword, with modest African-themed tablecloths, spare décor and a tiny bathroom.

Summing up: We ordered the veggie combo, African beef stew, chicken piri piri and curried corn, which together came to $36.50 before tax. Portions permit family-style dining. If you want to explore Africa's cuisines on a budget without leaving the comfort of downtown Seattle, this place is for you.

Sanjay Bhatt: 206-464-3103

or sbhatt@seattletimes.com